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  • Not sure, will check though.
    [b]Rob[/b]

    [b]2016 Toyota Hilux SR5 D4D Auto Company Cruiser... [/b].
    [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?23866-Hutch-s-2012-150-GXL-V6-petrol-Auto]Hutch's 2012 Build up[/url]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Comment


    • Mototrim had the same problem ... and when you looked at how close the two bolts were on his rig ... they were a hell of a lot closer than mine. I think he wound up removing one of the washers from the recovery point top bolt and it gave enough room for them to miss each other.

      Cheers
      Chippy

      Comment


      • Hi Mitch,

        Yes had the same prob and what a nasty feeling that comes back through the car.
        I removed the washer on the top mounting bolt and that cured the vibration and as you stated iam annoyed i didnt see it when i first installed it ops:
        Cheers Moto
        2007 Grande crystal pearl D4D auto

        Comment


        • I like the look of the recovery hitches for the rear tow bar, so I had a look under the existing tow hitch. Clearly its gotta pull 2500kg of caravan so surely we can use it for a recovery point, but I'd like to know what everyone else thinks of the words "towing purposes only". :?:

          I'd say the forces produced from 'snatching' a vehicle would be greater than the forces produced from 'towing' a vehicle. So as a result would the insurance/warranty be affected if it broke in a recovery situation?
          I'm going to get the rear hitch setup anyway as I'm sure the tow hitch is strong enough. I just thought it was interesting. :wink:
          [b][color=#0080FF]Pat[/color][/b]

          [size=3]2004 GXL, Diesel[/size]

          Comment


          • I picked up a set of unused Outback Ideas recovery points on Tuesday night for $20 including the bolts but no instructions. I feel pretty good based on the price I paid and what others did but then it was through a bloke I know who used to run a 4wd store but closed it down about 18months ago. He still has plenty of gear he's trying to sell off. Also picked up a Brand new Bushranger Pro-Air Compressor for $100 and a Redarc isoloator (100 Amps) for $100.

            Will be fitting the Points on Saturday so might drop in a Bun Nunnings tomorrow during lunch.
            [COLOR=#000080]Nick[/COLOR]
            [URL="http://pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=5308&sid=bcbebadd30673f1ac72047e6e8a93d79"]2006 TD GXL Evolution & Trips[/URL]
            [URL=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/Schaffer/prado][IMG]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/45547.png[/IMG][/URL]
            [img]http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/Schaffer71/Avatar/CooperCreek.jpg[/img] [img]http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/Schaffer71/Avatar/BendlebyRanges.jpg[/img]

            Comment


            • I will be fitting my OI recovery points this week, can anyone tell me what size drill bit I will need to drill out the top hole. I will pick one up when I get the right angle drill atachment.
              2008 Charcoal GXL V6
              [b]Suspension[/b] >< OME springs and shockers
              [b]Tyres[/b] >< Pirelli Scorpian ATR
              [b]Chassis[/b] >< ARB Deluxe Bullbar><Tow bar
              [b]GPS[/b] >< AVIC HD3>< Ncom G351 running ozi
              [b]UHF[/b] >< GME3440
              [b]Accessories[/b] ARB Dual battery system><Rear Camera><Safari Snorkel>
              [b]Brake Controller[/b] Hayman Reece

              Comment


              • 13mm drill will do it. dont worrry about the right angle drill and the movin radiator thing, just drill it from the outside and put a piece of steel between the hole and the radiator tank and this will stop any uh ohs. it will also save ya about an hour, cheers samo. if ya worried about clearance between the nut andthe radiator tank, dont use the nyloc nuts, just use a std 8.8grd nut and a little stud lock, the std nut will give you a few more mm of clearance. just a thought
                had an 03 gx 120 with some gear now got a 2013 bt 50 GT auto some ARB gear.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by samo
                  13mm drill will do it. dont worrry about the right angle drill and the movin radiator thing, just drill it from the outside and put a piece of steel between the hole and the radiator tank and this will stop any uh ohs. it will also save ya about an hour, cheers samo. if ya worried about clearance between the nut andthe radiator tank, dont use the nyloc nuts, just use a std 8.8grd nut and a little stud lock, the std nut will give you a few more mm of clearance. just a thought


                  If I dont move the radiator how do I get the top bolt through? All the pictures show the bolt going through from the radiator side.
                  Is there enough clearance to drill the top hole without the angled chuck then? I have an 18v Dewalt cordless drill which should be a bit more compact than most electric drills.

                  thx Pomp
                  2008 Charcoal GXL V6
                  [b]Suspension[/b] >< OME springs and shockers
                  [b]Tyres[/b] >< Pirelli Scorpian ATR
                  [b]Chassis[/b] >< ARB Deluxe Bullbar><Tow bar
                  [b]GPS[/b] >< AVIC HD3>< Ncom G351 running ozi
                  [b]UHF[/b] >< GME3440
                  [b]Accessories[/b] ARB Dual battery system><Rear Camera><Safari Snorkel>
                  [b]Brake Controller[/b] Hayman Reece

                  Comment


                  • put the bolt through from the outside and the nut will sit between radiator and chassis rail. i drilled mine with a 12v cordless.
                    had an 03 gx 120 with some gear now got a 2013 bt 50 GT auto some ARB gear.

                    Comment


                    • Well I fitted the recovery points today, it was a bit of job for me, although Im a carpenter with 25 years in the trade and generally pretty handy Im not great with car stuff.
                      I had to loosen the radiator and remove the bottom bolts as I had very very little clearance between chassis and rad.
                      I also had to remove the screws under the wheel arch to allow the drill to fit. (so didnt need the 90 degree drill attachment)
                      I had to grind about 5mm off the ends of the top bolts to avoid them hitting on the rocker assembly (they are still pretty tight, maybe 2-3mm clearance.
                      I did just glance the edge of the rad on one side with the drill bit, but no damage done, I wasnt sure how much I could pull the rad out of the way, in the end I wedged a piece of 2x1 in the gap so that the drill bit was clear.
                      The most difficult bit was actually getting to those radiator bolts, mega awkward.
                      Anyways job done, hopefully I'll get one of the lads to check those clearances for me at Icy Creek this weekend. Just for piece of mind.
                      2008 Charcoal GXL V6
                      [b]Suspension[/b] >< OME springs and shockers
                      [b]Tyres[/b] >< Pirelli Scorpian ATR
                      [b]Chassis[/b] >< ARB Deluxe Bullbar><Tow bar
                      [b]GPS[/b] >< AVIC HD3>< Ncom G351 running ozi
                      [b]UHF[/b] >< GME3440
                      [b]Accessories[/b] ARB Dual battery system><Rear Camera><Safari Snorkel>
                      [b]Brake Controller[/b] Hayman Reece

                      Comment


                      • I did just glance the edge of the rad on one side with the drill bit, but no damage done
                        :shock: Bet your heart skipped a beat when that happened!

                        I remember when I was younger I had a Pulsar ET turbo (WRX of its day!)
                        I was checking the hose clamps on the turbo, slipped and put the screw driver through the radiator core!!

                        Mick
                        [CENTER][B][I][SIZE=1][COLOR=blue]1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
                        Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost![/COLOR][/SIZE][/I][/B][/CENTER]

                        Comment


                        • Just a note on the difference of the clearances etc on different model Prados.
                          I cant actually use my current bow shackles on these new recovery points as the existing tow points on the car infringe on them.

                          Note the difference of the original tow point in Chippys shots

                          [img][/img]

                          This from another angle
                          2008 Charcoal GXL V6
                          [b]Suspension[/b] >< OME springs and shockers
                          [b]Tyres[/b] >< Pirelli Scorpian ATR
                          [b]Chassis[/b] >< ARB Deluxe Bullbar><Tow bar
                          [b]GPS[/b] >< AVIC HD3>< Ncom G351 running ozi
                          [b]UHF[/b] >< GME3440
                          [b]Accessories[/b] ARB Dual battery system><Rear Camera><Safari Snorkel>
                          [b]Brake Controller[/b] Hayman Reece

                          Comment


                          • what size bow shackles r ya using, a 3.2 tonne should go through and 4.8 might foul.
                            had an 03 gx 120 with some gear now got a 2013 bt 50 GT auto some ARB gear.

                            Comment


                            • 4WD megastores Frobisher st Osborne Park will suppy and fit for $85.00

                              Comment


                              • 4WD megastores Frobisher st Osborne Park will suppy and fit for $85.00

                                Comment

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