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For anyone looking at replacing a damaged CV with a non-genuine part think again! Over Easter I snapped a swaybar link which tore my CV boot on the passanger side. This filled up with sand as I was on Fraser - I cleaned it the best i could but had to drive back to the Gold Coast with no boot/grease so it was stuffed when I got back.
Went to Toyota they said genuine part is $900 or aftermarket was $250 + fitting of $170... So I asked them if the aftermarket was as good (strong etc), apparently it was so that's what I got. Now my suspension isn't exactly standard... my ride height measures 825mm in the front and I can get 900mm droop due to the mods.
With the new CV in I went out to Scenic Rim 4x4 park and hit it hard, but noticed some clicking noises when articulating. I also noticed this when cornering with speed. I got it home and jacked up the front so both wheels were off the ground, then I tried to spin the passanger front wheel and it wouldn't turn.... whereas the drivers side turned with ease. So not good, the CV was binding at full droop. I put a bottle jack under the lower control arm and jacked it up 30mm then the CV started moving again. As you can imagine i was pissed off!!
So took it back to Toyota, they sent my vehicle to the guys that made the CV and basically they said their CV wasn't designed to travel that far..... which is about 45mm less than a toyota genuine part (i have about 15mm buffer in the genuine part). So end result I went off my nut at Toyota as they would of obviously tried to spin the wheel while up on the hoist after fitting the part, so they installed a geniune part for $580 and now all good again.
Sorry for the short story but in summary, stick to genuine CVs if you break one!!
Double_D
Went to Toyota they said genuine part is $900 or aftermarket was $250 + fitting of $170... So I asked them if the aftermarket was as good (strong etc), apparently it was so that's what I got. Now my suspension isn't exactly standard... my ride height measures 825mm in the front and I can get 900mm droop due to the mods.
With the new CV in I went out to Scenic Rim 4x4 park and hit it hard, but noticed some clicking noises when articulating. I also noticed this when cornering with speed. I got it home and jacked up the front so both wheels were off the ground, then I tried to spin the passanger front wheel and it wouldn't turn.... whereas the drivers side turned with ease. So not good, the CV was binding at full droop. I put a bottle jack under the lower control arm and jacked it up 30mm then the CV started moving again. As you can imagine i was pissed off!!
So took it back to Toyota, they sent my vehicle to the guys that made the CV and basically they said their CV wasn't designed to travel that far..... which is about 45mm less than a toyota genuine part (i have about 15mm buffer in the genuine part). So end result I went off my nut at Toyota as they would of obviously tried to spin the wheel while up on the hoist after fitting the part, so they installed a geniune part for $580 and now all good again.
Sorry for the short story but in summary, stick to genuine CVs if you break one!!
Double_D
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