Opinions on my proposed Dual Battery system

[tknz Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close tknz]

Hi guys, apologies in advance for long winded post!

I know this is a well discussed topic (I have spent many hours on here looking at Rig Builds and other links) but I was hoping some of you can offer an opinion/suggestion/ pointers on my proposed system I am about to install. Part of the reason is I need to have everything prepared to spend and entire day to install a number of accessories and power supple 'points' with some paid help and 'checks' from a auto sparky too. My proposal is as follows:

Dual Battery system from Traxide (SC80) connecting both batteries via top of radiator (as yet undecided where to mount Sc80) but likely Ill make up a bracket and mount this on top on cranking battery

1 Double sheathed dual 6B&S wire running along chassis rail to single 50A Anderson plug mounted near tow bar and elec brake controller, with 50A circuit breaker near aux batter, and switched using relay and switch mounted in console (all my switches are from air on board).

A second separate line from aux to a LH rear power board with accessory sockets using 6mm twin auto cable via LH side rails in door way. Plan is to install a 4 way fuse block (1 30A for rear power board) and 1 for a Uniden UHF radio and 2 spares for further accessories. This will be mounted near aux using a yet to be made mount utilising existing holes, screws in engine bay.

All relays to be mounted close by too on same or separate custom mounting plate. All wires to be covered with conduit too - however any suggestions on exact or specific cable holders to use in 120 would be helpful to know, or clips etc to piggy back on conduit already installed?

There is currently a separate fused 6mm twin cable powering the RH side (factory spot) rear power socket from the cranking battery. I was going to shift this from main to the aux battery, add a centre console switch and have a 3rd line (or parallel circuit I think is right term). However, I would like to if possible, 'tap' into the 6B&S cable somehow, add a local switch and relay, so I am only running two wires to the rear of the vehicle. I can't find any links on a neat and tidy way to do this so open to suggestions or links, and/or how best to do that.

I also have a traxide low voltage cut off module, however the size of wire (gauge) is smaller in diameter than the wire i plan to use to power rear accessory panel, so I'm not sure how to include this, unless I have this connected next to my accessory panel in the LH rear of vehicle, but a little voltage drop my be a issue? again open to any opinions on this.

Will also add spotlights with relay and switch in console, and as stated the UHF radio too.

I don't have a camper trailer but we plan on hiring one a couple of times in the next 12 months, and will use a 60L Engel fridge occasionally too, so no major long distance touring planned, maybe 2 weeks tops on next 12 months and a couple of week trips here and there.

I have a 115ah century deep cycle battery as Aux, mounted in just installed Offroad Down-under tray.

Any opinions and or help on the above would be appreciated, but my two important questions are:

1. How to tap into the 6B&S cable i plan to run on the chassis to power the RH rear socket, and
2. Anyone have any specific info on mounting the traxide SC80 and low voltage cut out module in the 120 V6 engine bay.

Thanks
Tim

[cfryback Find all posts View Profile Close cfryback]

Dual Battery system from Traxide (SC80) connecting both batteries via top of radiator (as yet undecided where to mount Sc80) but likely Ill make up a bracket and mount this on top on cranking battery

I don't like that - especially if you are an auto. You want a proper isolator, not something that is going to drain both batteries. Most run RedArc. I have a RedArc SBI, and is configured to allow linking of both batteries for starting.

[VK6YBA Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close VK6YBA]

I have never liked the idea of linking both batteries for starting. You have no idea if your main battery is in good nick or not.
I use a home made isolator with a 250 amp DC contactor [made for electric vehicles] that I picked up some where with a 12V coil.

A bit of electrical "magic" disconnects the 2 batteries when starting. This enables you to keep a check of the state of your starting battery.

So: turn on key to Igntion position, batteries connected, turn to start, batteries disconnected, back to ignition when engine running, batteries connected.

I have a button on the dash that will link the 2 batteries if the main battery won't do the job when you ask it the question!

I used to fly in choppers to install/service mountain top radio repeaters and one pilot [who had a ramshackel Hiller UH12E always said that when he took off. Needless to say it always answered YES cos I am still here.

I have used this system in many different Tojos, 80,100 and other Landcruisers and now my 1KZ Prado.

PM me if anyone wants techo stuff on how I did this.

Owen VK6YBA

[D4Dforme Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4Dforme]

I'm using an Intervolt set up it can be programmed to cut out at a chosen voltage and has a switch inside the cab so the batteries can be linked for a start if needed.....i'm also using the Voltage booster diode..........No issues yet but like anything there is a hundred ways to do it ......mine just seemed the most simple way to go about it.

[sparksy Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close sparksy]

Hi guys, apologies in advance for long winded post!



1. How to tap into the 6B&S cable i plan to run on the chassis to power the RH rear socket, and
2. Anyone have any specific info on mounting the traxide SC80 and low voltage cut out module in the 120 V6 engine bay.

I crimped a separate 6mm waterproof fuse holder wire into the anderson lugs at the rear. Then wired that up into the cargo area. Heres a link to how I ran cables and mounted isolator. Im in wilson if you want to have a look.

http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...wiring-install

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Hi tknz, you can fit any number of power sockets to the ABG-25, it is how many of them that you will likely be using at the same time that will govern whether the total current load of all the sockets being use at once, will exceed the 25 amps the ABG-25 is designed to handle.

Also, the cabling on the ABG-25 has a continuos current rating of 35 amps, so no problem there.

It is highly unlikely that you will be operating accessories with a total current load of 20 amps for very long as this would discharge your batteries pretty quickly.

But if you have a specific need for higher current use, the a simple solution is to have the output of the ABG-25 power the coil of a 70 amp relay and the power all your accessories off the 70 amp relay, not the ABG-25.

This way you can have high current usage but still have the low voltage protection of the ABG-25.

Hi cfryback, why is my SC80 not a proper isolator?

It’s been around a lot longer than most other brands, including yours, and when variable voltage operating vehicles came on the market, like Toyota, my isolators were the only ones that work PROPERLY with the new voltage levels and every other brand had to change the way their isolators worked to get them to function PROPERLY in these new low voltage vehicle, and again, that includes yours.

So in reality, mine is the original PROPER isolator.