Prado 120 Tug to Jayco Dove Camper Setup

[Killswitch Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Killswitch]

Hi guys,

My mind is about to explode with the amount I have read about 12v setups for the Camper and Tug. Just need to confirm I am on the right track.

We have a 1985 Jayco Dove - It has no 12v set-up on it except for 2 lights and the 12v feed via the trailer plug to the fridge while driving (not sure it even works yet). Tug is a 120 Prado TD, with only a starter battery, no extra 12v gear. We plan to do a lot of free camping away from 240v. 3-4 days at a time. Our first trip is less than a week away. Last min I know.

From what I have read I have determined the following:
Prado
- has a “Smart Alternator” so will require some fancy wiring for the second battery in the Camper.
- Anderson Plug on the Towbar with Twin 6B&S to the Starter Battery (Need some fancy wiring for Smart Alt?????)
Dove Camper
- Front of Camper Anderson with Twin 6B&S to AGM Battery.
- I should buy a DC/DC charger for Solar and 12v. Probably will go with a CTEK D250S. Add Solar later when we can afford some panels.
- Need about a 105-120AH AGM Battery (Mounted under Lounge next to Fridge)
- Wire the Fridge 12v feed to the Camper AGM Battery and not the Trailer Plug
- Wire the Lights, Water Pump to the Camper Battery too.
- CTEK MXS 7.0 For Charging while 240v available (Caravan Park or Home). Will the MXS 5.0 do the job?

Appreciate any help.

Cheers.

[120D4D Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 120D4D]

The 120 alternative is temperature compensating only not 'smart' so suggest you send a PM to LeighW and order one of his diode boosters (assuming you have the D4D) this will give it a good voltage boost.

Don't wire the van fridge into the camper batter, they draw far too much for that and should be running off its own direct line (anderson plug) off the cranking batter, via an isolator/VSR of course. Lights, water pump etc are fine for the camper battery. Fridge off gas when camped is the way to do.

Voltage drop 'may' be an issue that you need a DCDC charger for, suggest initially wiring it all up without one and the booster diode and check to see if you'll even need it.

[Killswitch Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Killswitch]

Yes ours is a D4D.

So I would need an Isolator even with the DC DC Charger?

I am going to buy a FullRiver 105AH battery for the camper I think.

[120D4D Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 120D4D]

DC chargers have a built in batter isolators so no you wouldn't need an isolator if you take the DCDC path.

Taking the isolator path though allows for the purchase of a separate solar regulator and panels, and this would be a relatively inexpensive way to achieve a good result.

Either way, without solar right now you will be running the vehicle to put some charge back into your camper battery and the alternator will likely replace much more amp hours than the DCDC which is limited to 20amps/hour.