1KD 78(7) Fuel line malfunction

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

Hey!

I'm Andrew from Hungary, and just bought a second hand D4D Prado (540k km's on the clock lolz).

Anyways, car has some minor issues, like a squeking clutch and suspension, but my main concern is the following:

Sometimes (sometimes once a week, sometimes multiple times a day) the check engine light would come on, car would lose it's power and shortly after the engine would shut off. Rebooting the car would solve the problem for a while.

Checking the fault codes with techstream, there is a 78(7) Fuel line malfunction error registered in the ECU. See FFD on screenshot below.

Injectors are not new, but they seem to be in specs (however I have a cold and hot rattle).

Have anyone experienced this before?

Thanks in advance!

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

Well, my Rail Pressure is fluctuating @IDLE between 30-40 MPa, so I guess I'll start with changing the SCV's on the pump. My car has the old style CR pump with the RED/GREEN valves on it - hopefully it's going to solve the issue.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

The Injectors are off their rocker!!! Flogged out bad!!!
See total volume at 23? Ridiculous! So start with basics, renew Injectors, pipes & Scv etc.

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

The Injectors are off their rocker!!! Flogged out bad!!!
See total volume at 23? Ridiculous! So start with basics, renew Injectors, pipes & Scv etc.

Thanks for the input! Mind that the screenshot is an FFD, not taken at idle, but when accelerating from a standstill. I guess it's normal to see a higher value at the total injection volume in this scenario, isn,t it?

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

Attached to this reply is the results of a "normal" IDLE test. It's strange though that when I bought the vehicle it had +2.2 correction on injector #2, then for a while it was +1.5, and today it's back to +2.2.. They're sure not in mint condition, but seen worse on the forums.

Tomorrow i'll pull the scv's and clean them.. deep inside I know it won't make a difference, but hey.. I have to try.

Cheers.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Thanks for the input! Mind that the screenshot is an FFD, not taken at idle, but when accelerating from a standstill. I guess it's normal to see a higher value at the total injection volume in this scenario, isn,t it?

Yes correct.

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

Changed the fuel filter today, now rail pressure is 40-42 MPa opposed to the 31-35 it used to be. I don't know if this is related (could be), or if I'm measuring it correctly (ie. enviroment variables are not the same).. Tried to remove the SCV's also, but they're hard to get to, and the bolts are super seized - might just leave them for the mechanic as I don't have a proper allen wrench that would fit there. However I've treated their connectors with some wd40, as they were a bit messy. Rattle is ofcourse still there, but hopefully it'll stop throwing the 78(7) error code.. (Who am I kidding?! It'll probably show up in a matter of days again...)

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

Nevermind, Rail pressure @IDLE is still all over the place. Anything between 26-42 MPa was seen yesterday (although it seems to depend highly on the enviroment, like temperature and so..) #2 correction was back to +1.5 in the evening, which I don't get as well.. (sometimes it's +2.2, sometimes it's +1.5 all day)

Is it normal that IDLE speed at cold is around 1100 rpm slowly decreasing towards 650 rpm when warmed up? (like an auto-choke on a petrol car)

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Worn injectors can cause pretty bad rattle, even when seemingly in spec.
One I'm working on tomorrow only 105,000k, 2008 build, individual feedbacks not more than about 1.8+ or -, rattles bad!
By 5pm tomorrow she'll be like a new truck!
Injectors do cause many of these problems, along with Scv.

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

Worn injectors can cause pretty bad rattle, even when seemingly in spec.
One I'm working on tomorrow only 105,000k, 2008 build, individual feedbacks not more than about 1.8+ or -, rattles bad!
By 5pm tomorrow she'll be like a new truck!
Injectors do cause many of these problems, along with Scv.

Oh boy.. I just wonder why I didn't go with a pajero2 for half the price
Now it seems like I'll have to dump in $$$'s worth about a decent pajero2, to get the Prado right.. FML.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Oh boy.. I just wonder why I didn't go with a pajero2 for half the price

Chk, chk, boom.

We won't have any of that talk on this forum thank you.

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

Chk, chk, boom.

We won't have any of that talk on this forum thank you.

D Fair enough Sorry.

If we could then revert back to the original topic (I promise I'll stop being a whiny little girl).. The error code has not returned since the filter change, but I've noticed that it's literally pouring black smoke above 1.5k rpm when accelerating away from a stop. Also starting when hot is quite hard - have to crank the engine for about 5-10 secs to fire it up. Could this be as simple as a dirty MAF sensor, or I better be checking in to a Toyota service for an injector replacement (it would be great to avoid this, as I currently don't have $3000 for the job - so if this is the only route, I'll have to park the car for 4-5 months)?

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

Changed the air filter today (it was clean), pulled the MAF just to find out that the oring is broken.. Does anyone know the size of it / where to source it?

Thanks

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Your local hydraulic repair shop should have a massive range of rubber "o" rings. Alternatively, you could use the oxygen sensor safe silicon gasket goo.

[Sumi Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sumi]

Your local hydraulic repair shop should have a massive range of rubber "o" rings. Alternatively, you could use the oxygen sensor safe silicon gasket goo.

Thank you, will try.