Chug chug go broom..hesitation - Air flow?

[RutHunter Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RutHunter]

Mine was doing that same sort of thing but cleaning the MAF seem to fix it. Maybe your MAF needs to be changed completely? I would probably do this before paying to change all the coils. The other thing I did was pull the battery terminals off for a while so it can reset as it idled different after cleaning the MAF.

[Wal01 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wal01]

By the way RatHunter - Repco over the phone quoted me "Fuel Miser" coils at $144 each. I went into Repco and they charged me at cost for $98 each from the salesman. Don't know what the quality is like but another brand AP something were $346 each

[Tukangbaso Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Tukangbaso]

quick compression check on each cylinder would normally tell you if the head is still good or not and i don't think it's that expensive to buy the tool.

[Wal01 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wal01]

that might be the next step

[BiLLz0r Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close BiLLz0r]

It is on the very top-rear corner of the passenger side engine valve cover and has a hose leading to the intake.

Hi,

I'm having some issues as well so thought I'd check my PCV valve but for the life of me I can't find it.
Could I ask some to direct me where in this pic it is please?


Edit: I think I found it.
Is this it? http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/gr/...ion-hose#12204
I was looking for a right angle part as some were but seems ours is straight.

[Cardinal Fang Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Cardinal Fang]

Is this it? http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/gr/...ion-hose#12204

Yep, you got it. That is it marked 12204 in the picture in the above URL. It is on top of the passenger side cam cover at the back and is a bit of a pain to get to but not impossible.

You have to:
- remove the engine cover, then remove a bracket that holds two thick (coolant?) hoses and the engine loom to the plastic intake plenum (one 10mm bolt I think), you will see what I am talking about when you remove the engine cover.
- After these are clear and out of your way you should be able to see the PCV.
- slip your hand in and slide the rubber hose of the PCV.
- You will then need a 19mm deep socket and extension on your ratchet to to get the PCV itself out.
- Clean the PCV with some carby cleaner or equivalent.
- The little bead valve thing inside the PCV should rattle when you shake it, if not it is jammed/stuffed and time to get a new PCV.
- When putting the PCV back put some anti seize on the thread and make sure you pay attention to the torque specs ( 27Nm (275kgf cm, 20ft lbf) ) which is firm, but not too tight, as the PCV is steel and the cam cover is aluminium. The different metals expand and contract at different rates with the heat of the engine and doing it too tight can seize or strip the thread.

Hope this all makes sense, sorry I don't have any pictures.

[BiLLz0r Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close BiLLz0r]

- You will then need a 19mm deep socket and extension on your ratchet to to get the PCV itself out.

Wish I knew this before, lol. 2 trips to bunnings and I got the right size then had to get a socket size convertor on my 3rd trip.
I sucked on the end and it allowed air through ok. I took it up to a Cheaper Auto spares store and they guy confirmed it's fine.

- When putting the PCV back put some anti seize on the thread and make sure you pay attention to the torque specs ( 27Nm (275kgf cm, 20ft lbf) ) which is firm, but not too tight, as the PCV is steel and the cam cover is aluminium. The different metals expand and contract at different rates with the heat of the engine and doing it too tight can seize or strip the thread.

This has be worried. I don't have a torque wrench and or anyway to measure it. TBH I put it back in as tight I could as it was a bitch to unscrew in the first place. I wouldn't say I'm overly strong but not weak either.
I hope I don't introduce another fault here.