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PeteS · 07-07-2007, 07:03 AM

Hi ya Darkhorse
The crew is obviously mechanically challenged as I am as you have had no replies but a lot of lookers. :shock:

I have a D4D and am also interested re the filter. I will try to check out today what socket size fits the oil filter. From memory it's a slightly tapered nut on the filter. I'm sure it can be removed without a special tool or at the very least with a oil filter remover. I think you will find the part number they give you also contains a small hose that clips into the hole of the spill guard on the filter base so you can drain the spillage away.

I have a torque wrench anyway as I have a heavy hand myself and always overtighten without it. A torque wrench is also good to check those bloody mechanics that use rattle guns and overtighten your wheel nuts.

Cheers
PeteS

steveo · 07-07-2007, 09:18 AM

Sorry Darkhorse, don't have an oil burning however can't imagine that you need a special tool as the oil filter in a normal comsumable and should be able to be replaced by almost any butcher shop.

DarkHorse · 07-07-2007, 10:14 AM

Thanks for the replies guys. Looking under the bonnet this morning, not alot of room to move, let alone get tools into the area. At first I thought that the filter itself has the nut on it, but it hasnt, it is the sst that sits on top of the filter that has the nut...........

Cannot see where the drain tube goes from the top, will look later.

Will update soon.

Rob

steveo · 07-07-2007, 11:43 AM

Darkhorse,

The drain tube is not installed, it is put in place when changing the filter. I normally use a small container placed under the drain port (with the cap removed) to drain into as there is not normally more than about 100 mills to catch if you are changing the oil at the same time.

Fazza · 07-07-2007, 12:51 PM

Darkhorse

I am fairly sure that the filter drain hose all ready exist on the later D4D's.
You will find it on front side of the filter & close to the engine block, the hose comes out at the large oval hole in your sump guard. (beside you sump drain plug)
I would suggest when removing filter you loosen filter & let drain slowly as it is a small dia hose.

Cheers Fazza

John · 07-07-2007, 01:02 PM

Gidday Rob,

that tool looks similar to one I had to use on my bike. Don't stress - buy a strap wrench from an auto parts retailer. They're cheap as, and work well. I've been using one for years on difficult to get at filters.

Anyway, you should be in the other books if you have a command upgrade :wink:

DarkHorse · 07-07-2007, 01:55 PM

Hey John, yep definately need to get into the other books going to be a long road for the upgrade. I assume you are with Eastern's??? I was with Sunnies before Virgin, loved every minute of the Dash.

I spoke with Toyota and got a price on the "tool" cost $43.76!!! will just get a strap type wrench from Repco etc.

Supercheap have a FREE oil disposal service, just need an appropriate drum/container to catch old oil.

I paid $24.20 per 5L container of "genuine toyota diesel engine oil" and $14.25 for the "genuine" filter.

Supercheap had Castrol oil for $39.00 for 5L and the filter was more expensive as well!

Look forward to getting my hands dirty...................

Regards,

Rob

PeteS · 07-07-2007, 06:40 PM

Hi Darkhorse
Ditto with your findings on the nut for the filter - it certainly is not like the pic.

Agree it's in a tight spot. A small oil filter remover (strap type) should do the job.

Mines a Feb 07 build and no rubber hose fitted on mine to catch spillage.

Cheers
PeteS

Fazza · 07-07-2007, 07:58 PM

PeteS
Thats interesting Pete I had to go out in the cold & have a look, as mine is a Jan 07 (just after xmas build date) & it has the drain hose. It is a bit hard to see but if you pull off the plastic cover (if it is still there) from the sump gaurd maybe you will find a hose near the sump drain plug??
Has even got retaining clips keeping it from straying, so I would suggest it was a Toyota production thing. Traced it all the way back to the filter spill tray. Bonus??

May have been a xmas present from Toyota.

Fazza. 07 GXL D4D Auto

speedcomm · 07-07-2007, 07:59 PM

Can I ask a silly question here ? I will anyway

! Doesnt your book need to be stamped to get Toyota warranty ? If at say 80 K the engine develops a warranty related issue and needs rebuilding will the question be asked as to why the 5k services wernt done ? even though you did it yourself, as you as an owner cant stamp your own book. ( your word against Toyotas )

Or is the 5k service an inbetween in between service, oil change. Having a spark fired engine I need to only service at 10 K

Fazza · 07-07-2007, 08:27 PM

Speedcom,
Both posting at the same time.

Have been down that path before when in my own business.
As long as you can prove that all of the necessary components are genuine & have been fitted at the required intervals you should not have any problems.
Toyota stipulated that you keep all receipts as proof.
You can have your vehicle serviced by any outside repairer or by yourself.
Just don't make any mistakes as it will be your problem. e.g. leaving oil filter or sump plug loose.

However if you have a extended warranty the rules may change for the extension. (read as to what you have signed for)

That is for servicing only any warranty items must go back to the Dealer.

Just out of interest the service intervals for the D4D are now 10,000ks.

Never had any problems in the past , in fact probably found more warranty issues than the owners were aware of.

Fazza

DarkHorse · 07-07-2007, 08:42 PM

Speedcomm, I specifically asked the sales person and service manager about changing my own oil at 5000km. As indicated as long as you keep the receipts and use genuine parts then you are covered.

I started to do my oil change today, looked at the new filter box and it indicates the engine series application, guess what no 1KD-FTV engine listed. Managed to shine a torch on the existing filter and it has a different part number: 90915-20003 to the one I was given by the Toyota Parts department.

All this after they closed at Midday today. Lucky I checked, otherwise I would
have been stuck without a car until Monday morning (we only have one car).

I spoke with my brother-in-law who used to be service manager for Holden in WA and he said just change the oil at 5000k and the filter at 10000k.

I dont understand why you would put in perfectly clean oil only to have it pass through a dirty filter?

What do you guys think?

Regards,

Rob

Fazza · 07-07-2007, 09:39 PM

Originally posted by DarkHorse

Speedcomm,

I spoke with my brother-in-law who used to be service manager for Holden in WA and he said just change the oil at 5000k and the filter at 10000k.

I dont understand why you would put in perfectly clean oil only to have it pass through a dirty filter?

What do you guys think?

Regards,

Rob

Rob, I could stand corrected but my understanding is that the common rail diesels don't contaminate the oil as much as the earlier engines particularly with a lot of cold starts. Also the amount of oil in the filter would be a lot less than clinging to the internals of the engine.
If one was to do a lot of non stop driving, you could in theory extend the oil change intervals. (e.g. long haul trucks)
At the end of the day the cleaner the oil the better the engine life should be.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Cheers Fazza

John · 08-07-2007, 06:35 PM

Hi folks,

some of you are talking about the D4D (10000 oil change) and others the 3KZ(?) (5000 oil change).

Mine is the 3KZ (OLD) engine, and although it requires the more frequent oil change interval it does not require a filter at 5000km, or so my service book says.

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