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  • Extended link pins

    I have looked through the 120 Suspension threads and can not find one on this subject. I recently purchased Wholesale Suspension 30mm Rear Extended link pins. On measuring and comparing them to standard pins they are 12.2mm longer. Evidently these extended link pins were developed for the earlier series Prado where they are 30mm longer than std.I phoned Wholesale Suspension and Jason was quick to offer a full refund with freight included. I have no problem with him or his company and this post is not a criticism of this supplier. I am very happy with his service and would have no hesitation in buying from him again.

    What I do want is to establish is the best length extended link pin for my 120 Prado to achieve maximum drop in the rear suspension with the lift I have. My Prado is fitted with a 50 mm lift kit of Bilsteins and King springs. Tyres are 265 70 17. I have no intention of changing this setup. As the link pin is located above a rear control arm it I assume it could hit this arm if the link is too long.
    This is my first post and this topic is probably covered elsewhere. If so I would appreciate help to find the information. Has anyone already gone down this path who can provide the correct length link pin needed to achieve maximum rear suspension drop for my set up? Also the brand and where to buy these extended links?.
    2007 120 GX, automatic, diesel, 2in lift Bilsteins King springs, rear swaybar extended link pins, ARB lockers, TJM bull bar and bash plate, dual AGM batteries, Provent 200, Donaldson prefilter, Uniden UHF radio, IPF driving lights, Koita fog lights, roofrack

  • #2
    Wow, that's really interesting. I have the same tyre size as you and yesterday had my OME suspension done. ARB put on the wholesale suspension links (they are physically on/installed) and didn't say anything about the item not fitting or fitting incorrectly.

    Mine's a 2009 120 series and with the new setup I get 810mm at the back and 880/885 at full droop.

    Let me know what to look for

    Comment


    • #3
      I've read it again and now see what you mean. 12.2 mm is better than standard but would be good of there was a way of extending jasons links bit more?

      Comment


      • #4
        I have decided to extend the standard Toyota Prado 120 link pins.At this point in time my thinking is merely at the ideas stage so helpful suggestions are appreciated.
        First decision is where to add the extension to the link. The options I thought of:-
        1)Cut the 10mm rod part of the link and add a 30mm? long length of 10mm rod and weld the two joints - two welds in tension.
        2)Cut the rod and weld a bolt to the top of the upper bush mounting collar to extend the top and still be able to mount the top bush. This gives a hugh increase in the welded area and only one weld so should be the strongest of the welding options.
        3)Cut and sleeve the rod by either welding or cutting threads in the cut rod ends and inside of the sleeve.
        4)Add the extension above the top bush mounting collar by using a threaded sleeve in the form of a coupling nut which is an extended length nut. I feel this is the best option. This method will have no welds, no compromising the strength of the original component, the simplest,the least amount of work and the option to change the extension length by simply changing the length of the xtended nut.
        A quick web search to see what is available

        http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_coup...8.8_steel.aspx This is a USA site.

        I am off to local nut and bolt supplier tomorrow for a 10mm coupling nut with a 1.5mm course thread 30mm long in 8.8 grade. Available (at least in the USA) and the required length! So far so good. It will now depend on the final dimensions I can achieve.
        2007 120 GX, automatic, diesel, 2in lift Bilsteins King springs, rear swaybar extended link pins, ARB lockers, TJM bull bar and bash plate, dual AGM batteries, Provent 200, Donaldson prefilter, Uniden UHF radio, IPF driving lights, Koita fog lights, roofrack

        Comment


        • #5
          I made my links adjustable, if you follow the linkin my signature to my rig build you will find all the details. The first post has all the mods and where to find them.

          I run mine at 30mm over standard but also run longer 80 series shocks.

          Cheers Andrew
          [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


          [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Kitbags View Post
            I have decided to extend the standard Toyota Prado 120 link pins.At this point in time my thinking is merely at the ideas stage so helpful suggestions are appreciated.
            First decision is where to add the extension to the link. The options I thought of:-
            1)Cut the 10mm rod part of the link and add a 30mm? long length of 10mm rod and weld the two joints - two welds in tension.
            2)Cut the rod and weld a bolt to the top of the upper bush mounting collar to extend the top and still be able to mount the top bush. This gives a hugh increase in the welded area and only one weld so should be the strongest of the welding options.
            3)Cut and sleeve the rod by either welding or cutting threads in the cut rod ends and inside of the sleeve.
            4)Add the extension above the top bush mounting collar by using a threaded sleeve in the form of a coupling nut which is an extended length nut. I feel this is the best option. This method will have no welds, no compromising the strength of the original component, the simplest,the least amount of work and the option to change the extension length by simply changing the length of the xtended nut.
            A quick web search to see what is available

            http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_coup...8.8_steel.aspx This is a USA site.

            I am off to local nut and bolt supplier tomorrow for a 10mm coupling nut with a 1.5mm course thread 30mm long in 8.8 grade. Available (at least in the USA) and the required length! So far so good. It will now depend on the final dimensions I can achieve.
            Kitbags,

            I'm keen to see what you come up with as I have the same suspension and tyre size as yourself and was considering extending the links some day. Keep us informed on how you go with images if possible.

            Hazza
            Silver 120 Series Diesel GXL 2009 with Option Pack 2, king Springs 2" Lift with 'H' front spring, MT ATZ 4-RIB, Dual Battery, Deluxe ARB Bull-bar, Winch, Towbar, Anderson 50 amp plug at the rear, Weather Shields, Bonnet and Head Light Protectors, Rubber Mats inc Cargo mat, UHF Ariel, Portable Uniden UHF plugs into areal, On-board ARB Compressor, Brains Black Box TG150 Protector, Rear Black Duck Seat Covers.

            Comment


            • #7
              You can buy those threaded extensions at Bunnys or any bolt and nut place, they are used to extend cyclone bolts. BUT I wouldn't do it that way. Doesn't Superior do these for the 120? I just bought mine for the 150 but if you wanted to DIY I would be welding an extension in the straight length. If you are worried about weld quantity (will be fine) you could weld it and then sleeve it.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Kitbags View Post
                I have decided to extend the standard Toyota Prado 120 link pins.At this point in time my thinking is merely at the ideas stage so helpful suggestions are appreciated.
                First decision is where to add the extension to the link. The options I thought of:-
                1)Cut the 10mm rod part of the link and add a 30mm? long length of 10mm rod and weld the two joints - two welds in tension.
                2)Cut the rod and weld a bolt to the top of the upper bush mounting collar to extend the top and still be able to mount the top bush. This gives a hugh increase in the welded area and only one weld so should be the strongest of the welding options.
                3)Cut and sleeve the rod by either welding or cutting threads in the cut rod ends and inside of the sleeve.
                4)Add the extension above the top bush mounting collar by using a threaded sleeve in the form of a coupling nut which is an extended length nut. I feel this is the best option. This method will have no welds, no compromising the strength of the original component, the simplest,the least amount of work and the option to change the extension length by simply changing the length of the xtended nut.
                A quick web search to see what is available

                http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_coup...8.8_steel.aspx This is a USA site.

                I am off to local nut and bolt supplier tomorrow for a 10mm coupling nut with a 1.5mm course thread 30mm long in 8.8 grade. Available (at least in the USA) and the required length! So far so good. It will now depend on the final dimensions I can achieve.

                Cut and Sleeve would be pretty strong. I had thought of doing a trial set like this with one end welded into the sleeve and the other end pinned through to make a disconnect.

                Something like these in principle
                Click image for larger version

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                Regards, Jason.

                Comment


                • #9
                  YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

                  When are you selling them for the 150s?
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If you intend on increasing droop by longer sway bar links alone, you will be disappointed. The standard sway bar links are not the limiting factor of rear suspension down travel. The length of the shock is the primary limit, until the extended length exceeds 615mm, then the sway bar becomes limiting.

                    Extended sway bar links are certainly a worthwhile mod to bring the angle of the link back to spec after the suspension is raised, but unless longer shocks are fitted they will not increase suspension down travel.
                    "Sure it’s quiet, for a diesel, but that’s like being well-behaved… for a murderer."- Jeremy Clarkson

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I sit corrected. I have extended links on the lift on my 150. On a previous non Toyota the detachable link made quite a difference.
                      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Peterpilot View Post
                        If you intend on increasing droop by longer sway bar links alone, you will be disappointed. The standard sway bar links are not the limiting factor of rear suspension down travel. The length of the shock is the primary limit, until the extended length exceeds 615mm, then the sway bar becomes limiting.

                        Extended sway bar links are certainly a worthwhile mod to bring the angle of the link back to spec after the suspension is raised, but unless longer shocks are fitted they will not increase suspension down travel.
                        So shocks such as 60004 being only 5mm longer than stock don't need these. The one thing I don't understand is what benefit it is to bring the angle of the link back to what it was?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The more you change the angle the stiffer the ride...

                          I bought extended links for my recent lift on my 2008 D4D, the links are the same length, but the location of the bushes is different.
                          I also got extended travel shocks for the rear, to make the most of both...
                          D4D Prado GXL - 2014. 2" OME lift, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, ARB under body protection plates, ARB EZ Deflator, Weaco fridge, Matsen fridge on slide, BFG A/T's, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Oztrail side awning with LED lights PLUS canvas extension, Lightforce XGT's.. Oricom UHF380, GME AE4017

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by MDSimpson View Post
                            The more you change the angle the stiffer the ride...

                            I bought extended links for my recent lift on my 2008 D4D, the links are the same length, but the location of the bushes is different.
                            I also got extended travel shocks for the rear, to make the most of both...
                            Where is your bush located then.... I like to keep mine busy at home!
                            Cheers
                            Micheal.

                            2008 GXL D4D Auto. GOING... GOING... GONE
                            2015 GXL 1GD Auto. And it begins again...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Coupling nuts used to be available in grade 2,5 and 8.8 ratings. I have not checked this lately so this is probably out of date.
                              Sleeved disconnect links have advantages in extreme articulations especially on extreme specification vehicles. For my usage on the beach, water crossings, both fresh (often muddy) and salt, and up coming long term top end trip where humidity over wet season nights can reach 90% I have misgivings. I spent enough years there and rust and seizing of even unexpected places like ball jointed throttle linkages can occur almost overnight. Disconnect link pins especially the ones where the sleeve disconnects from the top with a continuous weld at the bottom form a water and grit trap. This grit/rust/mod needs to be cleaned out or else reconnecting pushes it to the bottom of the sleeve where it is compacted making it difficult to compress and refit the pin.
                              I think my 2in lift is not enough to benefit from disconnect pins. As pointed out by Peterpilot shockabsorber length (even with extended units) will limit drop. This situation can damage shockabsorbers. Any gain with a 2in lift will not be huge but it may just be enough to gain that bit more traction.
                              Besides which I am old and lazy and have no desire to be stopping and getting down on the ground to take out the pin, tie down the link pin, and then stop and repeat the procedure to refit it Doing it in the dirt no longer gives me thrills. Fitit and forget it sounds good to me.

                              Anyhow getting back to where I started this thread.I am still looking for answers to my original questions.

                              My queries are:-
                              Has anyone with a 2in lift had experience with extended link pins and if so what is the optimum length of the extension ?
                              I think I should have first asked are link pins necessary with a 2in lift?
                              Once the optimum length is established and verified does anyone know a supplier?

                              I do not want to do any changes till I know what changes if any to make.
                              2007 120 GX, automatic, diesel, 2in lift Bilsteins King springs, rear swaybar extended link pins, ARB lockers, TJM bull bar and bash plate, dual AGM batteries, Provent 200, Donaldson prefilter, Uniden UHF radio, IPF driving lights, Koita fog lights, roofrack

                              Comment

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