Finally got it from everything4wd. I was thinking of installing them by myself, as from looking at the photos looks easy . But there is on instruction in the package - is there suppose to be any instructions to come with them?
2013 ZR in Crystal Pearl With Bits From ARB Catalogue.
No instructions come with the points if you have the yellow ones. There is a fitment guide on the Roadsafe site but it doesn't tell you anything that hasn't been covered in the thread.
Andrew 12.9 is quite common though more usual in cap head screws. They are usually though not always fine thread which is why the upper points for mine were originally fitted with 8.8s. The Roadsafe points come with 12.9s. I haven't checked but I wouldn't think that there was a huge difference in shear strength between the two. Highest spec bolts I have ever had to work with were M36 Nimonic alloy cap head screws (yes screws). Holding a flange on a valve body. Had to undo about 40 of them and broke two impact inhex sockets (big arse allen keys) in the process. Nimonic is the sort of material exhaust valves are made from.
EDIT: here you go Jasen,
But you bought yours cheap off evilbay so they probably have something like
"Glade twelb poont none, genuun gud bol"
Check. Grade 12.9 also has no head markings other than the numbers stamped. At least I have never seen more than 6 flashes on a bolt head.
I'm no engineer so sorry if this seems like an ignoramus question, but, the strength chart you linked makes me think that the grades refer to a linear pull on the bolt ( ie end to end), rather than shear strength which is what they would be more likely to be subjected to holding recovery points unless the angle of pull was extreme.
If the wind don't blow, the world don't suck and we all fall off
You are correct. However allowable shear strength is usually something like 60% of tensile strength so they are still related. What I meant is that after applying the 60% factor there isn't that much difference in shear, the 12.9 bolts are still stronger, but the 8.8s are probably adequate. I haven't seen what testing regime that has been conducted so that is purely speculation so use the bolts supplied.
No instructions come with the points if you have the yellow ones. There is a fitment guide on the Roadsafe site but it doesn't tell you anything that hasn't been covered in the thread.
One also may have thought that they may have recommended a Torque setting in their fitting guide....... I know this has been covered with a link to a site with torque settings, in my desperation to fit these I cn't seem to find it. I have googled various sites and get various answers? Searched this site using advanced search still no luck or I'm just blind?(I'm sure the wife will back you up on that one). So I'll ask the question and hope for an answer and assume the position for the rear end adjustment from someone's boot
Additional info: No bar utilising two outer holes on OI points only and supplied 12.9 bolts
Thanks AJ. This was one of many sites that I had found, like I said seemed each site had a different answer? Google has lots of answers, some not always the best from my experience, it's a matter of sourcing the good ones? And also seek advice from those in the know. Looks like I've just found my job for this arvo b4 I go to work....
That reminds me how's the rear bar/wheel carrier going? Don't recall seeing updates in 'whats new'. I'll have to 'stalk' your page.
Thanks
Scud
2012 Blue Storm GXL D4D Auto | HR Tow bar |Roadsafe Recovery Points | Rhino Platform 42103 | Uniden 7760NB | 3D Matts | Dual Battery |
You are correct. However allowable shear strength is usually something like 60% of tensile strength so they are still related. What I meant is that after applying the 60% factor there isn't that much difference in shear, the 12.9 bolts are still stronger, but the 8.8s are probably adequate. I haven't seen what testing regime that has been conducted so that is purely speculation so use the bolts supplied.
Thanks for that information, good to learn something every day, or so they say.
If the wind don't blow, the world don't suck and we all fall off
Hi Everyone,
Just installed the Roadsafe points on my 1 week old GXL. I could fit the bottom and top bolt, all went in fine, The only thing I noticed is that the point is kind of close to the sway bar but don't expect it to be an issue.
Pic of Passenger side. ( I hope the Pic uploaded, first time I tried)
The drivers side went in fine.
Important note: I installed the another Mod that is way better. my PP Sticker.
The only thing I noticed is that the point is kind of close to the sway bar but don't expect it to be an issue.
Have a look back at pg 15, post 147 of this thread, yours does look a bit low. You don't have a bullbar which might affect installation points but most on here have used the 2nd bolt hole at the top there, not the outermost one.
Me I'm still waiting for Roadsafe to finish the re-design so I can get the points mounted on my Kakadu with the TJM T13 bar, getting a bit impatient now as I have already invested enough hours getting the fitment issues sorted out.
Have a look back at pg 15, post 147 of this thread, yours does look a bit low. You don't have a bullbar which might affect installation points but most on here have used the 2nd bolt hole at the top there, not the outermost one.
My Roadsafe ones are fitted the same as 2cows on the outermost hole as recommended by Roadsfe for installation on VX / Kakadu's with the TJM T13 Bar. TJM Brendale fitted them a few weeks back. Looks like the same installation points as mine.
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Daniel
Toyota Prado 150 Series D4D VX Auto Graphite with a 2009 Jayco Hawk Outback
My Rig Build Up - [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=9064"]viewtopic.php?f=38&t=9064[/URL]
Hi Everyone,
Just installed the Roadsafe points on my 1 week old GXL. I could fit the bottom and top bolt, all went in fine, The only thing I noticed is that the point is kind of close to the sway bar but don't expect it to be an issue.
Have a look back at pg 15, post 147 of this thread, yours does look a bit low. You don't have a bullbar which might affect installation points but most on here have used the 2nd bolt hole at the top there, not the outermost one.
Me I'm still waiting for Roadsafe to finish the re-design so I can get the points mounted on my Kakadu with the TJM T13 bar, getting a bit impatient now as I have already invested enough hours getting the fitment issues sorted out.
I have mounted mine the same as 2cows as per the instructions
If I was to mount it using the second or 'closer 2 hole' as per the TJM fitting and in mjrandom's photo, the hole in this location is rather large and would be relying greatly on the 'square washer/nut' setup supplied which imo wouldn't be as strong as using the hole 2cows, myself and the instructions recomend. Hope this makes sense.
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Daniel
Toyota Prado 150 Series D4D VX Auto Graphite with a 2009 Jayco Hawk Outback
My Rig Build Up - [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=9064"]viewtopic.php?f=38&t=9064[/URL]
I agree with Scud. It would be very easy to fall into the trap of installing it in the "Big hole".Then you could be in Big trouble when you had to be recovered!!! (but not by a Nissan). Wow I never realised how different the KDSS setup was. Now I understand why it would be very hard for companies to make a product that would suit the entire Prado/FJ range.
Thanks
Moo
(PS. having my first beer of the Arvo while writing this and I can say the PP stubby cooler is doing an AWESOME job!! )
Looks like the re-designed points have finally arrived from the Roadsafe factory, they contacted me today to organise a test fit before they do the destruction testing.
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