Instaĺling a waeco fridge slide .

[dannyo Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close dannyo]

Sorry if this has been covered before but I can't find anything on the web. I want to fit a waeco slide to my 150 gxl some ideas for mounting would be very helpful. What to do with the 3rd row seats has me stumped.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

I left my 3rd row seats in and just mounted the slide to a home-made false floor. The floor is secured to the back of the 3rd row seats via longer bolts into the existing luggage tracks. I have a Kakadu so luggage tracks instead of tie-down points.

There's some info in my build thread starting at this post and over the next few pages :- http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post459442

I used screws to secure the slide to the floor but T-nuts are better, the screws have let go a few times.

[Bobcrusader Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bobcrusader]

I took my (electric) seats out yesterday to test fit my Drifta drawers and Fridge Box. Was easier than I expected, other than the seats are HEAVY. Drifta supplies a custom false floor to mount the drawers and box to, but it could easily be used to bolt a fridge slide straight to, but I would also get the fridge box so you can still use the space above it for storage.

[dannyo Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close dannyo]

Nice work. I see from the photos that you had 4 holes to bolt the marine ply down. I'm still trying to work out where to bolt it down. I am not sure if the kakadu has a different set up or if it's the same as the gxl.

[Spilsy Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Spilsy]

In the gxl, lift up the plastic flap in the luggage tie downs and remove the bolt. You can then bolt to these points.

[dannyo Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close dannyo]

Perfect. Thanks for the help guy's.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

The trick is working out how to mark the bolt hole locations before you drill. I laid the timber down over the top of the bolts after they were bolted into the holes then gave the general area a whack with the hammer. The theory is the bolt heads will leave an impression in the timber, not perfect but it was close enough. Others use paint to mark the bolt heads then lay timber over the top and tap down, the paint should leave a mark on the timber.

[Spilsy Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Spilsy]

The trick is working out how to mark the bolt hole locations before you drill. I laid the timber down over the top of the bolts after they were bolted into the holes then gave the general area a whack with the hammer. The theory is the bolt heads will leave an impression in the timber, not perfect but it was close enough. Others use paint to mark the bolt heads then lay timber over the top and tap down, the paint should leave a mark on the timber.

Or...you could use my technique - Measure twice, drill hole...miss it by "that" much. Drill 2nd hole and make a slot. Tell people that its how you planned it all along.

[Fred63 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Fred63]

Marking the holes.
Get 4 bolts cut the head off and grind to a point and screw then into the threaded holes
Sit your board in place and as above hit the general area with a rubber mallet.
Take the board out and you have center punched marks ready to drill.

[Ian Reid Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ian Reid]

Marking the holes.
Get 4 bolts cut the head off and grind to a point and screw then into the threaded holes
Sit your board in place and as above hit the general area with a rubber mallet.
Take the board out and you have center punched marks ready to drill.

X2
Thats the method i used, holes were spot on


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[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

I my previous 150 GXL I made a plywood false floor to secure fridge slide and equipment boxes.

To start with I got a large piece of butchers paper and laid it across the back of the prado.. with rear seat retracted.
I pressed the paper into place so that it fitted perfectly around the rear trim and created a template of the rear area etc.
I used a black nikko pen and traced around the outline of the rear area so I had a paper template.

I then got a sheet of weatherproof type structural ply (I think it may have been 14mm but cant recall) and placed the butchers paper on top of it.
I used the black nikko to mark the outline of the rear area onto the ply.
I used a straight edge to make any sections of the outline that were straight exactly straight, and I left a gap of about 5mm or so the ply would actually fit in the rear area floor without getting jammed on the trim.
I then used a jig saw to cut the ply...which was much easier than I thought it would be, and I free handed the jig saw easily around the curves.
I put longer high tensile bolts into the original tie down bolt holes and rubbed chalk onto the top of the bolts and carefully placed the ply into the rear area, centred the ply, and thumped it with a rubber mallet to leave chalk marks and little dints in the ply to locate where to drill holes in the ply...simple.

Drilled the bolt holes, placed a sheet of black plastic on top of the rear area carpet and cut it to size to go under the ply to protect the carpet. Sanded the edges of the ply and painted the ply black with a can of cheap black paint.
With plastic under the ply, the ply was placed in the back and I then used large 50mm sized washers over the longer high tensile bolts on top of the ply and bolted the ply down, with the original tie down rings placed back on the bolts on top of the ply.

I placed the fridge slide on top of the ply and worked out where I wanted it placed and marked out the fridge slide holes.
I removed the ply again, and used 8 (i think it was about 8) "T nuts" from a bolt specialist retail type store, which you insert from the underside of the ply...into which I screwed small high tensile bolts from above through the fridge slide to hold the fridge slide in situ.
You can place a luggage strap secured from the tie down rings to come up and over the fridge/equipment boxes or rear drawers to hold it securely

Worked well for me with my last car.
I did a similar thing this time with my GX except we made a full fridge box and drawer system, but once again mounted it onto a false plywood floor bolted into the rear cargo area...except with teh GX I have more height and more width because there are no rear seats ( I dont need them anymore) and the rear cargo area is wider internally than the GXL.

Anyway...I hope that helps give you some ideas perhaps?