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  • Breaking in d4d engine

    Im getting different information about this. The manual states no hard driving, no towing. To me that sounds like babying the engine. Some other places are saying drive the hell out of it.

    Could someone shed some light on this please.

  • #2
    I think a good method to break in an engine is to drive it in the hills. The idea is to vary the power and not drive at a constant speed for prolonged periods. i.e. go up and down the rev range.

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    • #3
      Agree with amts. Don't baby the engine but don't make it lug either. Avoid constant speed (no cruise) and drive normally where you get to use different rev ranges / different gears.
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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      • #4
        How longs are you supposed to "break" it in?

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        • #5
          Just drive it. Forget the running in stuff. Thats from 20 years ago where things weren't machined to the tolerances of today.

          At work we run fleet. Nothing gets run in and there are no issues with engines other than operator error.

          You will often correctly hear the 'no lugging' an engine. This is correct for all engines all the time.

          Have fun.
          2009 120 V6 Auto. 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armours. Bilsteins and Kings Springs.

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          • #6
            I just RTFM which said to break it in for 2000km I think it was - as others above said minimize long constant drives but instead plenty of rev changes.
            2009 Prado 150 D4D GXL with 265/70R17 Cooper AT/3 tyres, Max Trax, HR tow bar, Airtec snorkel, UHF and the usual recovery gear. On the list: cargo barrier, Bilstein shocks and King springs, deluxe winch bar, 10000lb winch, Lightforce 240 XGT spotlights, dual spare wheel carrier

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            • #7
              From the manual
              To extend the life of the vehicle, observe the following precautions is recommended.
              For the first 300Kms avoid sudden stops
              For the first 8ookms do not tow a trailer
              for the first 1000kms do not drive at extremely high speeds, avoid sudden acceleration, do not drive continuously in low gears, do not drive at a constant speed for extended periods, do not drive slowly with the manual transmission in a high gear.

              Idling time before stopping the engine (diesel only)
              To prevent damage to the turbocharger, allow the engine to idle immediately after high speed driving or up hill.
              Normal city driving Idle not necessary
              High speed
              constant speed of approx 80kms - Approx 20 seconds idle time
              constant speed of approx 100kms - approx 1 minute idle time
              Steep hill driving or continuous driving at 100kms or more - approximately 2 minutes

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              • #8
                Heard many different methods, but generally as long as you don't sit on one speed for constant periods or lug the engine you should be ok. Like the manual says, no high speeds or towing, vary the revs and don't shut off as soon as you stop.
                Kev,

                2010 Silver 5dr GXL, Auto, diesel, ARB Deluxe bar, ARB bash plates, lightforce 170's, safari snorkel, towbar, dual batteries, air bags, trans cooler, Kings/Koni's, ARB rack, Cooper S/T Maxx's, Rock Tamers, Beaudesert 2.75" exhaust and more to come.

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                • #9
                  I would also recommend an oil change at approx 500km. I did mine and was in two minds about it initially. Afterwards I was glad I did because you should have seen the tiny metal flakes glitter in the sun when it was drained. Did not want to run with that in the oil for 10k km... Cheers
                  2010 White LC Prado 150 VX D4D (RSA spec)
                  "Die Wa"

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                  • #10
                    My 2009 150 Lc4 (VX) was bought as a 1 year old ex Toyota car driven by some manager or other - so I doubt it got any 'running in' as it were which I always do when buying brand new. Still - it sounds quiet, is smooth and responsive and a lot cheaper than new... )

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                    • #11
                      Coming from a maintenance background, I don't care what they say about modern engines the 1000km oil change is critical as there will always be some bedding in and generation of metal.
                      [B]Steve[/B]

                      2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by krypto View Post
                        Coming from a maintenance background, I don't care what they say about modern engines the 1000km oil change is critical as there will always be some bedding in and generation of metal.
                        1000% Agree Steve,

                        I always do a 1000km oil change and filter change. Picks up all the swarf, moisture and dirt that ends up inside the engine during the build process. My new trucks always get done. Cheap insurance I say.

                        Cheers,
                        [CENTER][B][U]Matt
                        [/U][/B]2012 Silver GXL TD 6 Speed manual with some stuff..
                        [/CENTER]
                        [CENTER][SIZE=2]My 2008 Lifestyle 360i camper - [URL]http://myswag.org/forum/index.php?topic=21797.0[/URL]
                        My 4WD Action write up 2004 120 V6 Prado - [URL]http://www.4wdaction.com.au/articles/2012/complete-package[/URL][/SIZE][/CENTER]
                        [SIZE=2]
                        [/SIZE][CENTER][SIZE=2]
                        [/SIZE][/CENTER]

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