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  • Low range reversing down steep declines

    Hi Guys,

    Recently did a trip along the Turon river (NSW) and I tackled a few side tracks to give the prado a good run. One of them was a really long and steep but open hill climb. I kept losing traction around 3/4's of the way up. So this meant only one thing, reverse back down. I nearly poo'd myself when I discovered how fast the Prado rolls down a hill in low range reverse.

    I assume this is normal, but thought I'd ask the question... Am I doing something wrong? Is there any advice/tips/tricks? It was the perfect hill to play around with settings on, so I tried hill descent but this seemed like a waste of time. This really has scared me off tackling the harder stuff now, knowing if i have to reverse down I have to try and slow down over 2 tonnes of metal without losing traction or going side ways.

    Thanks!
    Matt

  • #2
    You don't say whether you have an auto or a manual, I am assuming you have an auto given your description.

    Are you doing something wrong? Probably, have you ever done a 4wd course and been taught how to do a controlled reverse decent?

    My advice would be to find a club or an organisation that runs 4wd courses and book in for one.

    Cheers Andrew
    [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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    • #3
      Yep, do a course learn left foot braking in a controlled environment. But yeah reversing in an auto is a butt clencher if done wrong.
      [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the replies. It is an auto.
        I have a good idea on braking but there is always room for improvement. IMO there is only so much brakes can do on an extremely steep and slippery decent. I guess I am making a direct comparison with 2 x manual hilux's where the situation is much more controlled. It was a breeze reversing in my old hiluxes (2010 and 2004 models).

        Comment


        • #5
          Well there's only two things to slow you down when reversing (or going forwards) down a hill...

          1. Engine
          2. Brakes

          and both of these are totally dependent on the grip available between the tyres and the dirt.

          The only real difference between descents in an Auto vs Manual is that the engine will "run away" a bit more than a manual will. Thus you need to use the brakes a little in an auto.
          (this is assuming there is no hill descent control system, etc).
          Rob.
          '08 GXL V6 Manual with: O/L Bar, Cibie Oscars, Safari Snorkel, Revalved Ironman 45710 Struts & 45682 Shocks, Dobinsons & King springs, MickeyT STZs, Eaton E-locker on rear, ScanGaugeII, InaWise TPMS, and a Tvan controlled via TowPro.

          Comment


          • #6
            The biggest issue with downhill reversing is the weight being distributed to the rear, which when coupled with braking, causes the front wheels lock up and a loss of steering effectiveness. The other issue is the ease at which a 4wd can roll over in this situation. I always use the handbrake and concentrate on steering, then add a light amount of intermittent foot braking depending on the surface grip. Steering is priority.

            If the track is highly slippery than even little amounts of foot brake will cause a total loss of steering control - assuming there is any control at all - in fact, if the vehicle is going off track sometimes a brief acceleration with appropriate steering can correct the cars position. Of course, a safer and more controlled approach would be to winch down.
            glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

            Comment


            • #7
              Once again I would suggest a course, there is more to it than just putting your foot on the brake. I could explain it and go through it but its no substitute for actually being with a person whilst you are training them.

              The difference in technique between and auto and a manual is considerable, so knowing what to do in a manual really doesn't translate.

              If you use the correct technique a large amount of braking force can be used without fear of lockup. If you know how to do it; its easy to understand, if you have never been taught then its harder to explain.

              Cheers Andrew
              [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

              Comment


              • #8
                sometimes brakes don't work either. so get a manual

                the only thing I know that slows down a 4x4 when its serious is a diesel manual, if you can do it in an auto its not slippery enough
                tyre pressure is still everything.
                but then I suppose the traction control on these new beasts might do a pretty good job, so ive been told, it would want to be pretty gentle programming.

                Comment


                • #9
                  At the risk of going way off topic, imagine being in the same situation in a new auto Amarok. It has 8 forward gears so "there is no need for a low range transfer case." I beg to differ VW and various journos.

                  I'll also say book in and do a course. Not only will you learn proper techniques, but you'll be able to better see what your truck is capable of. Plus they are a load of fun. (Getting back on topic)
                  Wish List: Late 120 series or 150 series V6 preferably manual, the funds to buy said vehicle

                  Current ride: MY2002 Mits. Pajero V6 manual With a couple of bits and pieces

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by vxcruiser08 View Post
                    Hi Guys,

                    Recently did a trip along the Turon river (NSW) and I tackled a few side tracks to give the prado a good run. One of them was a really long and steep but open hill climb. I kept losing traction around 3/4's of the way up. So this meant only one thing, reverse back down. I nearly poo'd myself when I discovered how fast the Prado rolls down a hill in low range reverse.

                    I assume this is normal, but thought I'd ask the question... Am I doing something wrong? Is there any advice/tips/tricks? It was the perfect hill to play around with settings on, so I tried hill descent but this seemed like a waste of time. This really has scared me off tackling the harder stuff now, knowing if i have to reverse down I have to try and slow down over 2 tonnes of metal without losing traction or going side ways.

                    Thanks!
                    Matt
                    Make sure you have the center diff lock engaged, if your tyres are over-inflated for the situation, lower the pressures, rip on some hand brake, select reverse and give it a go. Be very gentle with the brakes so as not to lock the fronts, if you need more brakes but the fronts are starting to slide, grab more hand-brake. Do not let speed build up as slowing may be impossible, instead keep to a walking pace.
                    Prado Polar White 150 GX 3.0 TD Auto. HR TB, ARB delux bar, Hella R2000 lights, Magnum winch, ARB 50mm lift, BFG AT 265/70R17 on 71/2" alloys, Alloy side steps, Rhino sport bars, Tint, UHF, Scangauge, Aux batt (ABR kit), Cargo barrier, 50l water tank, Storage system, Elec brake con. ARB compressor

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Agree with many others...... Do a course.
                      Good technique and a little experience reduces the clenching .

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        A 4wd course is always going to help, there are lots of techniques you can employ to keep moving forward. I answered a request for help now and not "is it a good idea do do a course)
                        Prado Polar White 150 GX 3.0 TD Auto. HR TB, ARB delux bar, Hella R2000 lights, Magnum winch, ARB 50mm lift, BFG AT 265/70R17 on 71/2" alloys, Alloy side steps, Rhino sport bars, Tint, UHF, Scangauge, Aux batt (ABR kit), Cargo barrier, 50l water tank, Storage system, Elec brake con. ARB compressor

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Your down hill assist also works in reverse !! but only in low range. Did you have it activated or you didn't bother ?? I have used this in a 120 grande and found it worked great even though a little brake was still required but certainly held it well....Cheers Steve OK just reread your post and you said you did use the down hill assist, not sure why it wouldn't have been working for you....
                          Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeYmDOzoibk this is what can happen so easily if you go about it the wrong way. Thankfully no one was hurt in the video but the vehicle was written off....Cheers Steve
                            Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
                              sometimes brakes don't work either. so get a manual

                              the only thing I know that slows down a 4x4 when its serious is a diesel manual, if you can do it in an auto its not slippery enough
                              tyre pressure is still everything.
                              but then I suppose the traction control on these new beasts might do a pretty good job, so ive been told, it would want to be pretty gentle programming.
                              Sorry #### , but the diesel manual vs auto argument is done and dusted , even down hill as far as I can see , you should buy a grande . As others have said , maybe some training and technique tweaking is needed . As I have said before , do not bother with the downhill assist button it's basically useless , unless you have absolutely no idea how to use a brake pedal . These are just my opinions and no brake pads were harmed during the writing of this post . I'd put one of them smiley things in here now but I'm too stupid to work it out , cheers
                              03 grande v6 , with added stuff that makes it go places . RTFM people !
                              founding member of the " you don't need all that crap on a prado association "
                              "you only use 15% of your brain " Einstein . " so why not burn off the other 85% " Cheech & Chong .
                              petrol , petrol ,petrol , you know it makes sense ! im kavpetrolbitch

                              Comment

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