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no drive in 2wd

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  • #16
    Ouch! I think a replacement T-case is in order. Sounds like either the drive chain or sprocket are cactus.
    [B]Declan[/B]: [SIZE=1]1997 GXL 4.5 Auto 80 series on [B][COLOR="#FF0000"]LPG[/COLOR][/B], ARB bullbar, 2" OME lift, 32" MTZ, GME UHF, rear ARB locker, Kaymar spare wheel carrier[/SIZE]
    [B]PLANNED[/B]: [SIZE=1]3 or 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift (maybe), winch, 35" MTZ + roadies, front locker, sliders, cylinder head rebuilt for [B][COLOR="#FF0000"]LPG[/COLOR][/B], Garret [COLOR="#4499ff"][B]Turbocharger[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]

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    • #17
      internal transmission workings are beyond my skills, looks like a trip to the transmission shop

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      • #18
        Originally posted by williade View Post
        I have found that with both rear wheels in air, the front wheels chocked and the transmission in Park, the LSD provides a terrific amount of resistance when trying to spin 1 wheel. In theory the wheels should turn in opposite directions.

        But maybe the friction packs my rear diff aren't as worn as yours Glen.
        I didn't try moving them in park.. different test..
        ...psss.. I reckon my front diff has a bit more punch than yours ;-)

        Originally posted by adamjamescook18 View Post
        internal transmission workings are beyond my skills, looks like a trip to the transmission shop
        Yes, it certainly points to a transfer/gearbox issue, get it to a transmission specialist.
        glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

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        • #19
          It sounds very much like a transfer case issue, I have now seen several where the front output shaft spline has stripped.
          All bar one was due to a leaking oil seal and hence no oil!

          I think there is a gearbox and tranfer case on evil bay at the moment.

          Lee
          '18 VX, Billies with Dobinson springs, Summit bar with Narva Enhanced Optics to help my old eyes

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          • #20
            thanks leethal, i looked at ebay and found 3 but all automatic

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            • #21
              i am once again confused, i removed the rear drive shaft and the rear output mount does the same as the front which i mentioned was spinning freely and making a grinding noise. i did however have drive when it was in HL. when in HL both mount can spin independently where i thought they would spin together. could this have something to do with the diff locker or the centre diff. i couldnt find a mechanic that wanted to look at it including a 4wd specialist and toyota

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Derb View Post
                Hi Fellas. I would have thought that with LSD diffs, regardless of a broken CV joint, some load would have been transferred to the other three wheels and the vehicle would have moved whilst transfer box in normal position. I know that the 4WD fraternity bag the Toyota LSD's mercylessly but they can't surely be that bad. My 2 bobs worth. Cheers.
                the LSD is in the rear diff. the front does not have a LSD. being a constant 4wd, the centre diff (which splits drive between front and rear) needs to be open. this is to prevent drivetrain wind up. in later model Prado's, the centre diff is of a torsen design (torque sensing), which can act as an LSD of sorts. this means the vehicle may still drive, but may have a tendency to surge.

                with all 3 diff centres being open, the torque/drive will find the path of least resistance. with all diffs open, you are actually getting drive to only one wheel. centre diff locked means drive to one front wheel, and one rear wheel. if you then lock the rear diff with the centre diff also locked, drive is to both rear wheels, and only one front. if you lock all 3 diffs, the you will have true 4wd.
                8608
                Advanced Member
                Last edited by 8608; 14-05-2011, 06:42 PM. Reason: can't spell for shit
                SIK-120
                2008 Toyota Prado 120
                ...with a few bits and pieces on it...

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                • #23
                  i have dropped the oil and seems like a normal amount (approx 1.5L). is it possible to remove the front output shaft without removing the t-case?. by looking at it i assume its a matter of taking out the large nut in the middle of the flange and pulling the shaft out. my issue is how to loosen that nut as the whole shaft rotates when trying to loosen it. i found on a landrover site that they have issues with the front output shaft where they shear 1 tooth at a time which causes clunking when releasing the clutch until it eventually shears off the whole spline. this is exactly how my problems seemed to happen and because i still have drive to the rear wheels i am thinking its that front output spline. the grinding type noise im hearing is most likely the front output spline when it does grab every now and then. would you also know what size socket i require for that large nut.

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                  • #24
                    chears for that, i live in rockhampton queensland. the next thing im going to do is take the transfer case out. im not a fan of doing big jobs on the ground.

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                    • #25
                      i removed the transfer case which was much easier then i thought and took the cover off which was quite easy also. i cant see any obvious damage but hears a photo of what was sitting loosly in the bottom
                      Attached Files

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                      • #26
                        Photo is too small and can't see the details, but those bits at the top don't look good...
                        glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

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                        • #27
                          hopefully this pic is better, the bars at the bottom are all 20mm long
                          Attached Files

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                          • #28
                            thanks roo, i got the transfer case off on my own, it didnt move untill i levered it off which was good. i was told that i would have to drop the transmission down in order to get to the top bolts but i was just able to get the 2 top bolts from inside the car with a spanner i cut in half. hopefully i can get a second hand 1 from somewhere soon and it should be easy enough to put back in. all i can seem to find around the place is auto transmissions with transfer case attached. i dont think the transfer cases are the same though. apparently the autos have electronic shift motors where as mines manual shift. what is this part that slides in with the 3 wires attached.

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                            • #29
                              hears a pic
                              Attached Files

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                              • #30
                                thanks i sent an email to gc4x4 wreckers a couple of days ago, just waiting for a reply

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