It's been a while since I've done any serious work on the cars and I've been putting off swapping the head on the camping car for several weeks now. I'm a little daunted by doing this for this for the first time, but then so was I before I replaced the radiator & water pump, replaced the control arm & suspension bushes, swapped the steering rack, replaced the diff lock, fitted a snorkel, wired the solar & dual battery, fitted an intercooler & bonnet scoop, recon'd the injectors... This morning I've turned to the internet for some tips and courage, and found this HOW TO. Same thing really, seems easy... :lol:
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Originally posted by carco View PostMe too.
What did you do with the aircon compressor? Did you move it or remove it?
Also, I can't remember what I did with the transmission cooler lines when I changed the rad last time - did you just drain the ATF and then disconnect the lines?95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]
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New head day might become new head month...
Before:
Now:
I was hoping that I might not have to replace the rad but looking at the rad cap and top of the rad it is clear that it got very hot and the plastic at the rad filler seems to have suffered. I cleaned it up a bit but the plastic has changed and feels slightly grainy around the inside lip (where it should seal).
95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]
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Batteries, air filter box, intercooler, belts off, fan/radiator etc all out.
Aircon compressor I unbolted from its mounting bracket, (4-long bolts) and then tie it clear. Next unbolt the actual bracket from the head as there's some bolts behind the compressor, much easier to see once compressor is gone.
Transmission cooler, a piece of bent ⅜" copper tube looping hose to hose and by-passing the radiator does the job.
Turbo: The dump is a real bugger to remove. I've got an aftermarket 3" system so it's even more challenging. Remove the front pipe too as for sure you'll drop something down there. I removed the front wheels and those plastic body to chassis trims so access to the turbo oil banjo, support bracket etc is better. Turbo and manifold come off as a unit and once that's out you can drop the car down to a better working height. Plug the oil feed and drain hole with rags.
Injector lines and inlet manifold are heaps easier to remove with oil filter gone. Plug all that area with rag. (Suggest you screw the filter back on)
There's one steel heater pipe running from the left side across the rear and up to the rubber heater hoses. Unbolt it, one support bolt is right behind the head!! There's also a multi earth point in a similar spot, hard to get at bolts.
Cambelt cover, belt, tensioner etc all off. I always rotate the crank off TDC so there's no chance of valves hitting pistons should the cam accidentally move while the centre nut is coming off. Easy to re-time her during assembly.
Cam cover off then hold the cam with large shifter and remove cam centre bolt. 2-jaw puller needed to remove the cam pulley, catch the woodruff key. Now you can remove the alloy seal housing. A few bolts and she's also sealed to the head.
You could remove the injectors and glow plugs now too.
Think that's the main bits, the more you remove the easier it is to see the actual engine.
Head studs out and head off, it's heavier than you'd expect.
Then it's clean everything up and Bankcard time.
Probably see you at SMS ??
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Originally posted by fridayman View PostFor a long time I've been curious about a pair of odd sensor looking things at the back of the engine bay. Can anyone shed some light on what these are (there are 2)? I think it has something to do with the EGR.
Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
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Originally posted by carco View PostBatteries, air filter box, intercooler, belts off, fan/radiator etc all out.
Aircon compressor I unbolted from its mounting bracket, (4-long bolts) and then tie it clear. Next unbolt the actual bracket from the head as there's some bolts behind the compressor, much easier to see once compressor is gone.
Transmission cooler, a piece of bent ⅜" copper tube looping hose to hose and by-passing the radiator does the job.
Turbo: The dump is a real bugger to remove. I've got an aftermarket 3" system so it's even more challenging. Remove the front pipe too as for sure you'll drop something down there. I removed the front wheels and those plastic body to chassis trims so access to the turbo oil banjo, support bracket etc is better. Turbo and manifold come off as a unit and once that's out you can drop the car down to a better working height. Plug the oil feed and drain hole with rags.
Injector lines and inlet manifold are heaps easier to remove with oil filter gone. Plug all that area with rag. (Suggest you screw the filter back on)
There's one steel heater pipe running from the left side across the rear and up to the rubber heater hoses. Unbolt it, one support bolt is right behind the head!! There's also a multi earth point in a similar spot, hard to get at bolts.
Cambelt cover, belt, tensioner etc all off. I always rotate the crank off TDC so there's no chance of valves hitting pistons should the cam accidentally move while the centre nut is coming off. Easy to re-time her during assembly.
Cam cover off then hold the cam with large shifter and remove cam centre bolt. 2-jaw puller needed to remove the cam pulley, catch the woodruff key. Now you can remove the alloy seal housing. A few bolts and she's also sealed to the head.
You could remove the injectors and glow plugs now too.
Think that's the main bits, the more you remove the easier it is to see the actual engine.
Head studs out and head off, it's heavier than you'd expect.
Then it's clean everything up and Bankcard time.
Probably see you at SMS ??
I picked up my new head at SMS a few weeks ago. They did a good deal on complete new head with new water pump and timing kit for around $1900.95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]
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From the radiator cap photo, looks like you got coolant in the oil. Difficult to get all that clear, will take a few oil and filter changes. Suggest you give her some cheap stuff first, quick run, chuck it and then start with your normal oils. Filters are expensive on these old jiggers but the Toyota filter at around $29 is light years ahead of the Ryco for similar $$. I'll be fitting my last Ryco when I re-start and flush, genuine from then on.
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Look up genuine Toyota oil filters on EBay. You should find them reasonably priced for single units incl delivery and definitely a few dollars cheaper than Ryco filters from your local stores.
They're on par in price as the cheap Cooper oil filters from Auto Barn.
I got a Z418 equivalent gen Toyota filter for my 3.4L for $15 recently. Wish I bought them from EBay years ago. Even cheaper if bought in bulk. Had the Japanese writing on the filter as well and everything.Last edited by Brett1979; 29-05-2017, 10:38 PM.2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.
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Originally posted by Brett1979Had the Japanese writing on the filter as well and everything.Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
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Originally posted by Brett1979 View PostLook up genuine Toyota oil filters on EBay. You should find them reasonably priced for single units incl delivery and definitely a few dollars cheaper than Ryco filters from your local stores.
They're on par in price as the cheap Cooper oil filters from Auto Barn.
I got a Z418 equivalent gen Toyota filter for my 3.4L for $15 recently.
I searched and found genuine name filter suppliers can match or do better.
Now she's got oil pressure almost instantly on first start, Ryco would take 4-5 seconds.
Ryco in the Mr's car has the hydraulic lifters rattling away on first start whereas genuine is silent.
Been a Ryco user for almost 50 years, they've altered something and so have lost my business.
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Originally posted by t303 View PostNope, cutting them open proves that they are genuine, or at least an absolute clone! Cut open one from every batch (after use, obviously) to check they are still genuine.
cheers
Steve
Not having a go at you SteveSilver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
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