OK, well, my head is spinning about this problem. I have had my 2002 3.0 Litre Turbo Diesel for just over a year now. No hitches or problems. Fitted AirTec Snorkel and GReddy Turbo Timer. I change the oil and filter every 5,000 kilometres and keep it very well maintained. Yesterday, I thought I would do the right thing before summer and take my car to Natrad to have the radiator pulled out, cleaned, checked and have new coolant put in. They said the tank is fine, the inner cores were not blocked, but the fins on the outside were blocked with red dust and dirt. Now, before I go any further, I would also like to add, that in the year I have owned my Prado, the temperature never moved, not whilst under load, never whilst 4WDing in the bush or on the beach, the temperature needle just stayed put, even on the hottest of days and that could even be with the air-conditioner on. But, when I picked it up from Natrad and headed up north, I noticed that even on the slightest of incline, the temperature would climb a fraction (keep in mind that is was raining and reasonably cool). I thought this was odd to say the least. Anyway, my voyage was from Newcastle to Laurieton. When I got to Laurieton, I forgot to mention that I only drive at no more than 90 KPH too, so the revs sit around the 1800 RPM mark, I let the car idle down as long as the turbo timer requires it too. The turbo timer I have normally shuts the car off after a minimum of 10 seconds, but on longer trips, or if with lights on, the timer will adjust the time from any where between 10 seconds and 8 minutes, so, after driving for 2 hours, with lights on, coasting at 90 KPH, the turbo timer had climbed up to 8 minutes, nothing unusual. After about 15 minutes, I get back in my car and start it as usual, I drive up the road for a few minutes and the Turbo warning light comes on. I get to my girlfriends place and shut my car off, have a peek under the bonnet see nothing, I start the car again, but there is no light. Anyway, I was there for about 1 hour before we make our start back to Newcastle. We head off, and again, only a few kilometres down the road and the Turbo warning light comes on again. I noticed a great lack of power, especially climbing hills, having to go back to 3rd on occasions. I found the sweet spot on my accelerator, kept it nested so the revs sat on 1850 RPM and coasted home. What I would like to know is a few things. Being a water cooled Turbo (I was told this, please correct me if I am wrong), could Natrad have contributed to the problem? In saying this, could an air pocket somehow gathered in the Turbo, causing it to heat up and seize? I have no smoke issues and my fuel economy has not changed (still averaged around the 9 to 9.5 L/100), but there is no power. How much is this going to cost for me to fix. If Natrad contributed to this, are they liable. I am more than upset as I was to tow my camper trailer to a 4WD comp that I am navigating for at the end of this month. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am taking the Prado back to Natrad this morning, so, hope all works out.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Turbo Failure
Collapse
X
-
Re: Turbo Failure
Im pretty sure the rad shop could not have done anything to cause a problem, the turbo will not seize without water.
Have you looked at it yet? It could be something like a blown boost hose causing your problem.06 GXL TD 5 spd man, Dual Batteries, Safari knock off Snorkel, Sov. Bar, BFG ATs, GME TX3420, Safari Dtronic, ARB Compressor.
-
Re: Turbo Failure
Turbo warning light comes on again. I noticed a great lack of power
The light on with the engine running means it's in "Limp home mode" i.e.; it's detected a fault and is supplementing the faulty system/sensors with a "fixed" or "base line" data.
In "limp home" mode the ECM only needs the very minimum inputs to keep the engine running (crank angle sensor, throttle position etc) if things like the boost sensor, engine temp, fuel temp, intake temp are not being input power will be down.
Even if the light only comes on intermittently the ECM will store a fault code which can be extracted (I have a write up in the 120 diesel section on this, only difference for the 90 series is your connector is next to the power steering reservoir under the bonnet and you jump pin TE1 and E1)
Also check all the sensor connectors and loom under the bonnet are secure and undamaged, especially in those areas near where Natrad were working (ECM coolant temp and around the injection pump as the drain for the block is behind it)
Mick[CENTER][B][I][SIZE=1][COLOR=blue]1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost![/COLOR][/SIZE][/I][/B][/CENTER]
Comment
-
Re: Turbo Failure
Well, went to Natrad. Although, on the way there, everything seemed perfectly normal. Light was out, and Turbo boost was back. I explained all this to Natrad, and asked him about an AirLock causing the fluctuation of the temperature gauge moving up and down, and also about the Turbo. He said it sounds about right, he again bled the system in front of me. He asked me to rev the engine to 3000RPM on the way home keeping a close eye on everything. He also said that if something was wrong with the turbo, he would cover the work he did on the car including a new Turbo if required. But, as it turned out all is good. Another thing he brought to my attention was using an oil cooler as a separate water cooler for the Turbo itself. This would have cooler water going directly into the turbo giving it more power and longer life. Thanks again for all your replies, much appreciated. So, alas, the 2002 Prado lives on....233,000 kilometres and counting. I have had it for a year and clocked up 50,000 kilometres and really still going strong. Just a hiccup with some air was all. Thanks heaps. Yowie[b]Because the world's not flat[/b]
Comment
-
Re: Turbo Failure
Originally posted by MickLTurbo warning light comes on again. I noticed a great lack of power
MickBlack 2008 D4D GX, Bolle tint, Airtec snorkel, Hayman Reese tow bar, Staun deflators, ARB Air, front & rear extended diff breathers, Milford cargo barrier, Poly Air, 2" lift, XGS suspension, road tyres - 265/65x17 Grandtreks, play tyres - 265/70x17 Wrangler MTR's, ARB Sahara Bar, TMax 9000 winch, custom winch panel, Uniden UHF, Garmin 76csx with RAM mount, Eee PC with OZI, triple IPF 900XS spotties, rear ARB diff locker, Brown Davis underbody protection, Darren McRAE Auto Craft Rock Sliders
Comment
-
Re: Turbo Failure
I think he has an after-market add on reading his post.....
This would have cooler water going directly into the turbo giving it more power and longer life.
As for the longer life.... if you use a quality oil, follow the maintenance schedule and don't abuse the turbo by not idling down, then the turbo will last the life of the engine or longer anyway.
Mick[CENTER][B][I][SIZE=1][COLOR=blue]1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost![/COLOR][/SIZE][/I][/B][/CENTER]
Comment
-
Re: Turbo Failure
Originally posted by Yowie in OzOK, well, my head is spinning about this problem. I have had my 2002 3.0 Litre Turbo Diesel for just over a year now. No hitches or problems. Fitted AirTec Snorkel and GReddy Turbo Timer. I change the oil and filter every 5,000 kilometres and keep it very well maintained. Yesterday, I thought I would do the right thing before summer and take my car to Natrad to have the radiator pulled out, cleaned, checked and have new coolant put in. They said the tank is fine, the inner cores were not blocked, but the fins on the outside were blocked with red dust and dirt. Now, before I go any further, I would also like to add, that in the year I have owned my Prado, the temperature never moved, not whilst under load, never whilst 4WDing in the bush or on the beach, the temperature needle just stayed put, even on the hottest of days and that could even be with the air-conditioner on. But, when I picked it up from Natrad and headed up north, I noticed that even on the slightest of incline, the temperature would climb a fraction (keep in mind that is was raining and reasonably cool). I thought this was odd to say the least. Anyway, my voyage was from Newcastle to Laurieton. When I got to Laurieton, I forgot to mention that I only drive at no more than 90 KPH too, so the revs sit around the 1800 RPM mark, I let the car idle down as long as the turbo timer requires it too. The turbo timer I have normally shuts the car off after a minimum of 10 seconds, but on longer trips, or if with lights on, the timer will adjust the time from any where between 10 seconds and 8 minutes, so, after driving for 2 hours, with lights on, coasting at 90 KPH, the turbo timer had climbed up to 8 minutes, nothing unusual. After about 15 minutes, I get back in my car and start it as usual, I drive up the road for a few minutes and the Turbo warning light comes on. I get to my girlfriends place and shut my car off, have a peek under the bonnet see nothing, I start the car again, but there is no light. Anyway, I was there for about 1 hour before we make our start back to Newcastle. We head off, and again, only a few kilometres down the road and the Turbo warning light comes on again. I noticed a great lack of power, especially climbing hills, having to go back to 3rd on occasions. I found the sweet spot on my accelerator, kept it nested so the revs sat on 1850 RPM and coasted home. What I would like to know is a few things. Being a water cooled Turbo (I was told this, please correct me if I am wrong), could Natrad have contributed to the problem? In saying this, could an air pocket somehow gathered in the Turbo, causing it to heat up and seize? I have no smoke issues and my fuel economy has not changed (still averaged around the 9 to 9.5 L/100), but there is no power. How much is this going to cost for me to fix. If Natrad contributed to this, are they liable. I am more than upset as I was to tow my camper trailer to a 4WD comp that I am navigating for at the end of this month. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am taking the Prado back to Natrad this morning, so, hope all works out.
After having had the same thing but on a 3.0L D4D, cleaning the sensor output ontercooler has things back to normal.[color=#0000FF][b]ONLY SERIE 9[/size][/b][/color]
Comment
-
Re: Turbo Failure
Originally posted by Yowie in OzWell, went to Natrad. Although, on the way there, everything seemed perfectly normal. Light was out, and Turbo boost was back. I explained all this to Natrad, and asked him about an AirLock causing the fluctuation of the temperature gauge moving up and down, and also about the Turbo. He said it sounds about right, he again bled the system in front of me. He asked me to rev the engine to 3000RPM on the way home keeping a close eye on everything. He also said that if something was wrong with the turbo, he would cover the work he did on the car including a new Turbo if required. But, as it turned out all is good. Another thing he brought to my attention was using an oil cooler as a separate water cooler for the Turbo itself. This would have cooler water going directly into the turbo giving it more power and longer life. Thanks again for all your replies, much appreciated. So, alas, the 2002 Prado lives on....233,000 kilometres and counting. I have had it for a year and clocked up 50,000 kilometres and really still going strong. Just a hiccup with some air was all. Thanks heaps. YowieFace lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
Comment
-
Re: Turbo Failure
Originally posted by Steve MHi there Yowie, where did they bleed it at ?? Mine is due for coolant change and going to do myself ?? Normally on ther vehicles I just leave the radiator cap off until thermostat opens and let the air out that way, BUT maybe diferent with the turbo (havnt had t/d before) ?? Regards Steve
Yowie[b]Because the world's not flat[/b]
Comment
-
Re: Turbo Failure
Cheers, thanks for that, sounds like it might have been one of the heater hoses. Thnaks for that Regards Steve
[quote=Yowie in Oz]Originally posted by "Steve M":3e8rjig7Hi there Yowie, where did they bleed it at ?? Mine is due for coolant change and going to do myself ?? Normally on ther vehicles I just leave the radiator cap off until thermostat opens and let the air out that way, BUT maybe diferent with the turbo (havnt had t/d before) ?? Regards Steve
Yowie[/quote:3e8rjig7]Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet
Comment
-
Re: Turbo Failure
this is the first time that i have tried to get any answers on the internet hope i am doing this in the right section if not please some one point me in the right direction. i have a 2000 toyota prado 3000 diesel five speed. i have had it for about a year now and for the last few months i have been having trouble with the turbo light coming on and off. when it comes on i lose power and i makes like a rattling noise as well. i have taken it to toyota in mudgee and they can not find any thing wrong but when they had it the light did not come on so i took it to another mecanic and they tried to find the problem with no success as yet and i am afraid that when the light comes on and i am driving the car with light on i am doing damage to the car that will cost me a fortune to fix please can any one help me.
Comment
-
Re: Turbo Failure
[quote=Yowie in Oz]Originally posted by "Steve M":16p7r7doHi there Yowie, where did they bleed it at ?? Mine is due for coolant change and going to do myself ?? Normally on ther vehicles I just leave the radiator cap off until thermostat opens and let the air out that way, BUT maybe diferent with the turbo (havnt had t/d before) ?? Regards Steve
Yowie[/quote:16p7r7do]
You have to bleed it back there as it is the highest point. You will still have air there if you just do it from the radiator cap. An alterative is to use a tall funnel and fill it so the coolant level is above the heater hose, start engine let it run till thermostat opens and sucks the rest of the coolant inDont list all ya mods, you will only be more upset when i get further
Comment
-
engine warning light
Originally posted by MickL View PostWhat "Turbo" light? You mean the "Engine Check" light. The ECM self diagnosis has picked up a fault.
The light on with the engine running means it's in "Limp home mode" i.e.; it's detected a fault and is supplementing the faulty system/sensors with a "fixed" or "base line" data.
In "limp home" mode the ECM only needs the very minimum inputs to keep the engine running (crank angle sensor, throttle position etc) if things like the boost sensor, engine temp, fuel temp, intake temp are not being input power will be down.
Even if the light only comes on intermittently the ECM will store a fault code which can be extracted (I have a write up in the 120 diesel section on this, only difference for the 90 series is your connector is next to the power steering reservoir under the bonnet and you jump pin TE1 and E1)
Also check all the sensor connectors and loom under the bonnet are secure and undamaged, especially in those areas near where Natrad were working (ECM coolant temp and around the injection pump as the drain for the block is behind it)
Mick
Peter
Comment
Comment