Ticking noise when in D. ?

[Neal Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Neal]

My Prado, 1998 5VZ with 300k on the clock has developed a ticking sound when in the D position. when i put it in N the ticking goes away. the sound is almost identical to an added fuel pump that pumps from long range tank to main tank. (The sound when there is fuel being pumped. When its empty its a much louder ticking but its the full ticking sound)

I have been under the car but the sound is drowned out by the engine when idling and the ticking is only audible at idle in side the cab.. and only in D, 2 and L, and maybe in R.... N and P are silent...??

i was looking for a 2nd Prado for my wife and one of them that we test drove had this sound? that had 200k on the clock, also 1998?


my G box is getting tired i think as there is a thud/clunk when engaging R and only when warm. its started to thud in D now too. could this be related? is there anoil pump in the G box that could be causing this??

Ive check all mountings and they seem fine? recently had the upper and lower control arm bushes replaced OEM parts.

Any one have an idea???


regards.

[Ken in Cairns Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ken in Cairns]

How does the oil in the Auto look ??s it a nice bright red, or is it dull and a little dirty looking?? Hopefully not dark brown or black. and with a burn cork smell.

There is a screen filter in the auto, and an oil pump.
The pump could be noisy or starved for oil and it is having some cavitation due to this.

Mine used to thunk a fair bit when going into reverse, until I gave the pan and filter a clean (the filter is a fine steel mesh and washable) and the auto a flush to purge out the old oil and then refilled to the correct level with new oil.
The pan holds about 3 litres and the torque convertor about 7 or 8 litres, and the only way top get the old oil out from it (without contaminating the new oil) is to disconnect the cooling line (both is better as you can't be sure which is the supply and which is the return, though I think the supply to the cooler is on the drivers side from memory) to the radiator, and fill the auto with 3 litres, get a helper to start the engine and drain 2 litres into a bucket (I had marked mine in 2 litre increments with a Nikko pen), stop the engine and refill with 2 litres and so on until clean oil comes out into the bucket.
Do not let the auto run dry.
Then refill the auto to the normal level. You will have to stop and start it again a few times to get the oil to fill up the torque convertor and the rest of the system, when it is at the normal level, run it through all the gears, pausing for 10 seconds at each gear, each way do this twice, and the recheck the oil level.
I used a bit over 2 of the 5 litre AFT jugs, maybe 12 or 13 litres all up, so get 15 litres and you should have some left over to either change the power steering fluid, or to use at a later date.

I would recommend you clean the pan and filter as well, this is a little more involved, and may be outside your comfort level as you have to remove the crossover pipe on the exhaust to remove the pan, not hard but the 3 nuts on the exhaust manifold on mine were TIGHT, but if yours is anything like mine it will be worth it. Make sure there are a couple of magnets in the pan, and give them a clean as well as the pan a good wash and wipe-out.

The pan has no gasket, it is sealed with RTV (room temperature vulcanising) compound. Permatex make one in a aerosol can called The Right Stuff see this link

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...t-maker-detail

which is about 20 bucks from Supercheap, or 50 bucks from Mr T.

There is a little cork seal under the filter, don't loose or break it !! The filter is held on with either 2 or 3 small bolts, depending on which model you have.
I washed mind out with kerro (it was filthy, took a few goes to get it clean), and then hosed it out with water, blew it dry with an air duster, and then oiled it with ATF to stop it rusting up.
Don't over tighten the filter or the pan bolts !! I can't remember what the exact torque value is from memory, but isn't a lot 6 Nm maybe.

Give it a go if you feel confident, can't hurt, isn't that expensive to do yourself or that hard either, should take you a good afternoon however

An Auto shop will charge you a few hundred to do this if not more, PLUS the cost of the oil at 11 bucks a litre !!!

Cheers
Ken


There are few threads on here and other places on how to do it, but that is the guts of it in a nutshell.

[Neal Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Neal]

Still cant find the problem and its getting louder... seems to be coming from the G-box.... just below the shift leaver.... could be T case as well...??

[SWR Banned Find all posts View Profile Close SWR]

Gday Neal

Still cant find the problem and its getting louder... seems to be coming from the G-box....

I have come across this a few times in the past (Daimler limousines) & if you can remove the starter motor or an inspection plate so that you can get a visual access to the torque converter bolts (x 6 bolts that hold the torque converter to the drive plate & has the starter ring on the outer of it).

There is highly a good chance that it is the drive plate (cracks in the plate appear around bolts and cause a ticking sound @ idle as the drive plate flexes) & typically disappears when put into neutral as the load is removed from the front pump!

Cheers