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  • #16
    Well done Crooza, after hours of coaxing the temp control backwards and forwards, it just clicked passed whatever was slowing it up last night and now works like a bought one - great outcome, ta.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by trevorj View Post
      Well done Crooza, after hours of coaxing the temp control backwards and forwards, it just clicked passed whatever was slowing it up last night and now works like a bought one - great outcome, ta.
      No probs mate, some can take longer than others for that little fray to brake off, good to see it finally did.
      97 VX Grande, with front & rear air lockers, ARB Sahara winch bar with tigers 11 winch, 2" EFS lift, 265/75/16 Achilles Desert hawk XMT, and more.


      [B]Bitumen - A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/B]

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      • #18
        Thanks for the offer mate, but i think I've got most of it sorted. The control unit itself is ok, just the flaps in the heater box are jammed. Seems to get hot enough with that side of it disconnected and just rely on the heater tap. Still have to fiddle around with the heater tap cable as it doesn't fully shut off to the cold position after being in the hot position. At the moment I just open the bonnet and push the tap the last 4 to 5mm by hand.

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        • #19
          Will give it a go. I drove to work this morning (560km!) and had the heater on when I left. When I wanted the heater off I pulled over and checked the heater tap. It was only open 1 or 2mm max, but it was enough to make it hot inside. I might put a light return spring on the tap so that when I turn the dial to cold it closes 100%. Probably wouldn't be a problem if it wasn't for the blend door issues.

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          • #20
            need some help here, with a related problem. initially, had a problem with the cable as reported here. that caused hot air in when trying to cool. wish i had read this thread before....but since i didn't i managed to break that heater knob internal plastics. (will get that fixed later). anyway, i disconnected the cable from the heater control valve and moved that valve manually. cooling works fine. season changed...need to get hot air back. moving that valve manually didn't do the trick. going to the broken heater knob, seems that it is pulling 2 cables. one going to that heater control valve and another i couldn't trace where it goes to. any ideas how to get hot air back? i guess i need to find this other cable end and figure which other valve i need to move. once i figure that and get hot air back, i will need to find a way to repair that plastics...but first thing first
            thanks for any help

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