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  • Advice needed for a noob, please help.

    Hi guys,

    I have fallen in love with 4wding in the last year and have finally saved about $12000 for a Prado. Now my question is should i look at petrol 4.0l prados with aprrox 220-250000kms or rather try and stretch my budget for a 3.0l diesel with 300 - 350 000kms or more.

    Also guys the most 4wding I'll be doing is moreton, fraser, landcruiser mountain and just general camping at rainbow. Nothing to major.

    Now Guys what i am after ultimately is reliability and longevity in my next vehicle. Fuel consumption is not a major concern. Namely my major concern is spending money on rebuilds and major repairs etc. I am prepared for regular maintenance and servicing but not $1000's on repairs.
    Which do you guys think will serve my purpose better.

    Thanks in advance guys.

  • #2
    Originally posted by 4wdbug View Post
    Hi guys,

    I have fallen in love with 4wding in the last year and have finally saved about $12000 for a Prado. Now my question is should i look at petrol 4.0l prados with aprrox 220-250000kms or rather try and stretch my budget for a 3.0l diesel with 300 - 350 000kms or more.

    Also guys the most 4wding I'll be doing is moreton, fraser, landcruiser mountain and just general camping at rainbow. Nothing to major.

    Now Guys what i am after ultimately is reliability and longevity in my next vehicle. Fuel consumption is not a major concern. Namely my major concern is spending money on rebuilds and major repairs etc. I am prepared for regular maintenance and servicing but not $1000's on repairs.
    Which do you guys think will serve my purpose better.

    Thanks in advance guys.
    Answer to your question would probably come down to personal preference and driving style. I suspect there are several ways to cut this cake (power & torque requirements, Km's (relative wear and tear), 4 vs 6 cylinders (again wear and tear), age model, features)

    Given what you have stated, I'd probably go petrol (based on comparatively lower mileage (& hopefully lower wear and tear) - older diesels may have higher running costs?)... That said I drive a diesel lol

    There are far more wiser folk that I here... So wait for consensus...

    Cheers,
    2.8L Kakadu (Chrystal Pearl). Extras - Snorkel, tow-bar, tint & bonnet protection. Wish list - Bash-plate, diff breather extension

    Comment


    • #3
      The 4.0 is the technical less complicated engine, compared to the 3.0 D4D. There is no turbo with all its periphery, no critical high pressure injectors and no problems with clogging up oil screens and air intakes (EGR). Putting a plate in the EGR is a possible solution here.
      But it takes seriously more fuel while 4x4ing of course. The automatic transmission (5speed) works pretty well on the petrol Prado, but not perfectly everytime on die diesel one though.

      Nice things about the D4D is of course the massive torque (which can be felt better with manual transmission) and the relatively low fuel consumption (long range). The D4D is also a reliable engine, no question about that. But you should at least be prepared to use some dollars for fixing the mentioned things - cause replacing and fixing things on a Prado can sometimes be a bit pricey. A further advantage of the D4D should be, that you can get diesel more easy in the outback than petrol, in case of emergency. Correct me if I'm wrong.

      BTW: I drive a '05 D4D automatic myself - and I'm happy with that, also the automatic could be a bit better - but no real problem. I like my car :-)
      [COLOR="#A9A9A9"]***[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?36308-Nightwolve-s-Prado-120-Grande-a-Prado-from-Germany"]Land Cruiser 120 Executive D4D (Prado 120 Grande)[/URL], 2'' lift (Eibach springs, HT shocks, AMTS Spacers), H&R 50mm wheel spacers, 265/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs, TJM Airtec Snorkel, TJM Side Steps, Vision-X Light Cannons, Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform, Foxwing awning, and some things more...***
      [B]RC: [/B]1/8.5 LC75 Series Ute - 1/9.4 JK Rubicon Unlimited[/COLOR]

      Comment


      • #4
        is it feasible for such a high km car to be reliable and act as a daily driver, without spending mass amounts on rebuilds etc?

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by 4wdbug View Post
          is it feasible for such a high km car to be reliable and act as a daily driver, without spending mass amounts on rebuilds etc?
          Depends on how the car has been used in it's life. Much of towing, much of 4WDing? How often and how good it got serviced? Did the previous owners know the weak points of the Prado and kept an eye on them? What parts have been changed so far, and how often? Especially the D4D is the engine, where the more information is the better.

          Daily driver and 4WDing is no problem for both of them - in case of good care by the previous owners. The Land Cruiser (Prado) is a very reliable car, but it's like with every kind of vehicle or machine: Better care, longer life, less problems. Buy a Prado with a good history only, especially in case of the D4D.

          Some other thinkings: If you get more features (e.g. Grande model), you have to be prepared for higher costs for maintenance. Of course, what's in the car can break, what's not in can't. More comfort might cost more money. Some examples could be the glass sun roof, airbag suspension, 2nd seat row climate, electrical seats - nice to have, but possible failures on that can cost a noticable amount of money.

          So you have to decide what advantages are more important to you. A Prado is never a cheap car, so make the best out of your money.
          I hope you'll find the perfect one for you soon :-)

          Regards
          Sven
          [COLOR="#A9A9A9"]***[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?36308-Nightwolve-s-Prado-120-Grande-a-Prado-from-Germany"]Land Cruiser 120 Executive D4D (Prado 120 Grande)[/URL], 2'' lift (Eibach springs, HT shocks, AMTS Spacers), H&R 50mm wheel spacers, 265/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs, TJM Airtec Snorkel, TJM Side Steps, Vision-X Light Cannons, Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform, Foxwing awning, and some things more...***
          [B]RC: [/B]1/8.5 LC75 Series Ute - 1/9.4 JK Rubicon Unlimited[/COLOR]

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks guys for the reply's. alot to think about. At the moment i'm leaning toward the 4.0l petrol.

            Are either engine, petrol or diesel notoriously known for further reliability, or are they both known to be quite reliable?

            Comment


            • #7
              For $12K, you are most likely going for the 1KZ diesel. There is not much difference in fuel economy between it and the V6.
              The 1KZ requires 5,000km servicing intervals and timing belt change every 150K km. It is also known to do head gaskets. Glow plugs would need to be changed around the 200K mark or the tip might fall in and may cause damage.
              The V6 has 10K km servicing intervals and a timing chain. There are cases of engine mounts falling into the chassis and very rare engine oil sludging.

              As a daily driver, no problems with either one. The V6 has plenty of oomph and petrols are better suited for short trips. Both engines will go on forever.
              The diesels tends to have higher resale so there might be a better chance of getting a petrol with lower kms and less offroad duties for the same price as a 1KZ.

              Comment


              • #8
                Search D4D problems and then search 4l petrol problems. Only one list will keep you up all night. As an owner of a D4D (diesel), buy a petrol unless you are mechanically minded. Prior to 2007, the diesel was smaller and less powerful, ok if you are not towing I guess.
                [B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
                [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Based on your intended use and budget get the V6 petrol. Make sure though you get it independently checked before you become emotionally attached. If you need a name send me a pm. Have fun. All those places are good. Have you joined the Crofters (Landcruiser mountain park)? If yes what do you do up there. Does it involve goats?
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey all,

                    Another vote for the petrol here!

                    There's not much difference in peak torque between the 3.0 D4D and the 4.0 V6, you can happily tow all day with both.

                    If you're at all concerned about fuel economy, have a read of this;

                    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ost-comparison

                    The last page in that thread (post #139) has a comparison between fuel economy and servicing based on historical fuel prices over 10 years.

                    For your intended destinations and your budget, the 120 V6 is your best bet!

                    ...try and aim for a later model past 2007 if you can stretch your budget, some of the 1GR-FE issues have been sorted by then, eg. timing cover oil leak and leaky head gasket on #6 cylinder.

                    There are still a lot of 120 petrols around with reasonably low km's that have not seen off road conditions. Be patient and take your time, and something good will come your way!

                    Good luck with your purchase, plenty of Prado fun coming your way!

                    Best

                    Mark
                    2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks whitey, a very interesting read.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        +1 for the petrol. Reliable and easier to work on. Easier car for learning mechanical and general maintenance skills. Especially if you want to do things yourself in the future to save heaps of money and learn things along the way. Cheaper maintenance costs.
                        Just keep in mind that for the km range car you'll be buying there will be some things that will generally need replacing between the 250,000-300,000km mark. Maybe a bit longer if you're lucky. Just a fact of life, so keep some money put away and don't be dissapointed if you need to spend a little money on things a short while after owning it. These things include the starter motor, alternator, maybe the radiator, the timing belt and those pesky bushes here and there. With any luck one or more of these things had already been replaced recently on a 250,000km car. It's just something to be aware of and prepared for with a higher km car. The engine itself is very reliable and will last a very, very long time, but it's just things bolted onto and surrounding the motor that need replacing once or twice during its life.

                        Best of luck, happy shopping and hope you find a great car.
                        2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hey 4wdbug,

                          This thread is compulsory reading for anyone considering a pre 2008 3.0 D4D;

                          http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-seats-Egr-Scv

                          Any problems with the petrol 1GR-FE are considerably less problematic and cheaper than the > $10,000 rebuild costs that many have experienced with the D4D.

                          Best

                          Mark
                          2006 GXL petrol auto. ARB deluxe bar x3 HID IPF's, ARB alloy roofrack, ARB awning, BFG A/T, Safari snorkel, Piranha breathers, Pacemaker extractors, custom Ironman 45710FE 436-569mm with Dobinsons 350, custom Ironman 45682FE 383-618mm with Dobinsons 487, Firestone kevlar 60psi airbags, 30mm extended Roadsafe links, AMTS bashplate and recovery points, ABR Flyer with Powersonic AGM.

                          Comment

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