It's ABR Sidewinder. Only correcting you because I made the same mistake. Feel free to come to church with me and ask forgiveness from Dog.
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2004 4L 120, I tried just last night wiring the Spotties which I've done countless times on negative switched high beam, but this Prado is proving tedious in the cold at night trying to get the right wire. Thought I had it until I turned off the headlights and the spotties came on! Back to the Voltmeter.... I'll try disconnecting both bulbs and see how it goes!
2004 VX, V6 LPG Conversion, Soverign Alloy Bar, Snorkel, Hella 1000, Rola Roof Bars, Waeco Fridge, Camel Camper. My other 4WD was a Kia Sportage- muddies, exhaust, lift= great little truck!
On the 120 the lights are wired as follows:
Power from the battery goes through the switch contacts of the master headlight relay to the common terminal of the lamps. The low / high beams are then switched to ground through the beam selector function on the combination switch. The colours of the wires are as follows:
Left Lamp: Common Red-Green, Low Red-White, High Red-Green
Right Lamp: Common Red-White, Low Red-White, High Red-Green
Note that the stripe-colour of common changes between the left and right lamps.
The fact that the master relay switches the positive is also very important, because when picking up power to activate a spotlight relay, you must pick it up AFTER this switch. If you pick up a positive from the battery to power your spotlight relay, it will activate when the lights are off because it will ground through the headlamp. (Note, I am talking about the power for the spotlight relay coil, you can pick up your power for the spotlights themselves direct from the battery).
The easiest way to wire in spotties, is to tap both Red-Green wires near the LEFT lamp. Your wiring will go from one red-green, through your spotlight dash-switch, then to one side of the relay coil, then from the other side of the relay coil to the other red-green wire at the left-lamp. If you are using a basic non-illuminated switch, you can do it this way without having to worry about positive, negative etc, because you are just wiring in parallel with the high beam. Illuminated switches take a little more thought (especially if they have polarised led's), but the basic principle is still the same.
I roughly tried this but the blue high beam indicator on the dash lit up when one of the wires was tapped. It worried me a bit so I wasn't game to wire it all in. Already blew one fuse from a rogue short circuit from my fiddling. Will have a crack at this now....
2004 VX, V6 LPG Conversion, Soverign Alloy Bar, Snorkel, Hella 1000, Rola Roof Bars, Waeco Fridge, Camel Camper. My other 4WD was a Kia Sportage- muddies, exhaust, lift= great little truck!
All 120 series Prado's are Neg Switching, what people get mixed up with while test is they get positive potential on the low wire as it feeds through the filament of the bulb. to test correctly disconnect both bulb then test, you will get no feedbacks then.
The assumption has been made that all 120 series D4D wiring is the same. I also know how to test wiring and that's why I posted my 'alternate' finding for my 2008 D4D. It is 'definitely' positively switch, I disconnected to test for positive with my meter as people with electric experience know to do.
Mr Toyota seems to have two kinds of wiring happening here, it's likely it changed some time in 2008? I don't think you can say ALL 120 have negative wiring, mine does not
My spoties are working fine wiring one side of the relay (85) to earth, and the other (86) getting active positive power from the red-green high beam wire (spliced behind the L headlight through a dash override switch), as per standard positive wiring systems.
Ok I can add some clarity to this. Just installed a set of IPF 900XS and the 150 is definitely positively switched for the high beam.
Only 2 wires feeding the high beam globes, white and black. The black wire reads 12v when the high beams are on so tapped the IPF trigger wire (yellow) into that one and everything works perfectly.
Cheers, Sam.
Just thought I would add to the confusion, was wiring the driving lights in today in my case the high beam globes had two wires still however in this case they were white and green (with a black stripe) in this case it was positive switched and tapping the green wire was required.
This clearly tells me that Toyota seem to be running more than a little loose on there wiring loom standards so no assumptions should be made on this stuff moving forward without checking first.
I wired my spotlights recently and found the reason behind all the confusion. Yes people are right when the say the the Hi-Lo beam is negative switched in the 120 i.e. pushing the stalk forward switches negative to the to High beam lamp, in the centre position negative is sent to low beam, problem is the headlight on-off switch turns positive on and off to the common terminal of the bulb. If you wire up the spotlights as a neg switched system the spotlights will come on when headlights are turned off (Neg feeds back from on off switch through bulb). If you wire them up a positive switched but use the low beam wire it will work as the only time the low beam wire goes positive is when high beam is on and the headlights are on.
I found this Red-white stipe wire under he steering wheel inside a white plastic tray (see photo)
On the 120 the lights are wired as follows:
Power from the battery goes through the switch contacts of the master headlight relay to the common terminal of the lamps. The low / high beams are then switched to ground through the beam selector function on the combination switch. The colours of the wires are as follows:
Left Lamp: Common Red-Green, Low Red-White, High Red-Green
Right Lamp: Common Red-White, Low Red-White, High Red-Green
Note that the stripe-colour of common changes between the left and right lamps.
The fact that the master relay switches the positive is also very important, because when picking up power to activate a spotlight relay, you must pick it up AFTER this switch. If you pick up a positive from the battery to power your spotlight relay, it will activate when the lights are off because it will ground through the headlamp. (Note, I am talking about the power for the spotlight relay coil, you can pick up your power for the spotlights themselves direct from the battery).
The easiest way to wire in spotties, is to tap both Red-Green wires near the LEFT lamp. Your wiring will go from one red-green, through your spotlight dash-switch, then to one side of the relay coil, then from the other side of the relay coil to the other red-green wire at the left-lamp. If you are using a basic non-illuminated switch, you can do it this way without having to worry about positive, negative etc, because you are just wiring in parallel with the high beam. Illuminated switches take a little more thought (especially if they have polarised led's), but the basic principle is still the same.
Old thread, but trying to clear some min-info, as it had me confused.
This might be true for some Prado 120, but not for mine, and the Red/White wire is actually Hi-Beam, and is positive switched.
I used this wire at the headlight to power the relay coil, and sent to ground via the dashboard spotlight switch.
Incidentally, this is the current Toyota diagram for Prado 120.
Old thread, but trying to clear some min-info, as it had me confused.
This might be true for some Prado 120, but not for mine, and the Red/White wire is actually Hi-Beam, and is positive switched.
I used this wire at the headlight to power the relay coil, and sent to ground via the dashboard spotlight switch.
Incidentally, this is the current Toyota diagram for Prado 120.
Check your wiring on your car, that diagram you posted is for 120s with daytime running lights. Here's the one for without daytime running lights which to my knowledge is all the Australian version 120s and are negative switched.
Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!
Fact still remains mine are positive switched. ie. current only available at the Red/White Hi-Beam wire when Hi-Beam is on, and has to be earthed through the relay coil and switch.
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