Machter Recovery Points

[OlsensToursandTraining Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close OlsensToursandTraining]

I wrote to Macter today

"I received my Prado 120 recovery points today. I'm pretty handy, fixed the odd broken chassis on the Canning, built a few race cars. My question is, given the hardware supplied, how would you recommend fitting these?-

There are two holes in the outer subframe near the existing tow points. One hole on each side is blind and could never be drilled out as it would enter the horizontal section, so do I drill a hole above these two?

Even if I drill a hole above these two, there are a couple of problems-

1. Two of the bolts supplied are too short to go through that section, and
2. two are so long that they'd hit the radiator.

Very interested to hear how you intended these to be fitted when you designed them."


So now to PradoPointers, how did you fit similar?
Did you drill a hole above the two existing? Did you remove the radiator and flip the bolts so that the heads were nearer the radiator? I'll need to get new bolts as the four supplied are useless.
Looks to me like any bolt sticking inwards is risking punching a hole in the radiator. In any case the bolt for the body mount is in the way and would have to be removed. Drilling the hole will be difficult.

Looks to me like it needs the inserts that go in the hole in the frame, that the likes of Ozi4x4 bullbars fit to.

[404pug Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 404pug]

A long time since I put recovery points on a 120 but I recall having to loosen the top radiator mounts a little and then removing the bottom ones so you could swing the bottom of the radiator back to allow insertion of those bolts from the inside of the chassis rails . When tightening the radiator up again carefully centre it so there is clearance to both bolt heads. I don't recall drilling any holes. The recovery points came with bits of heavy wire welded to nuts to insert through the chassis rails from the outside. You may have to pack a few flat washers to get things level.

[Daniel150 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Daniel150]

Hi mate.
Firstly, don’t even bother with the 120 points. They simply bolt onto a cross member that is not structural and shouldn’t be recovered off. In the past I have installed the road safe points designed for the 150 series to my 120. Yes they do fit and have the advantage of spreading the load back to the chassis rail.
The 120 series points are rated but there is no way that small crossmember they bolt to is strong enough for a difficult recovery. Personally I’d just use the factory tie downs with a bridle if you where going to stick to those points.
Yes I have recovered off the factory points out of necessity but did get hairline cracking on the welds back to the main chassis.
So bottom line, put those points in the bin and buy some 150 series ones for the sake of $150.
Happy to elaborate on the reasons behind that cross member being a bit weak if you need me too!
Cheers

[OlsensToursandTraining Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close OlsensToursandTraining]

Hi mate.
Firstly, don’t even bother with the 120 points. They simply bolt onto a cross member that is not structural and shouldn’t be recovered off. In the past I have installed the road safe points designed for the 150 series to my 120. Yes they do fit and have the advantage of spreading the load back to the chassis rail.
The 120 series points are rated but there is no way that small crossmember they bolt to is strong enough for a difficult recovery. Personally I’d just use the factory tie downs with a bridle if you where going to stick to those points.
Yes I have recovered off the factory points out of necessity but did get hairline cracking on the welds back to the main chassis.
So bottom line, put those points in the bin and buy some 150 series ones for the sake of $150.
Happy to elaborate on the reasons behind that cross member being a bit weak if you need me too!
Cheers

I too have recovered off the factory points using a gentle recovery. I'd do the same with any design like the Prado, even with the rated points. I only do "full" recovery on things with a chassis. I'd be interested in what is involved in fitting the 150 points.

[Daniel150 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Daniel150]

Hi mate, what bar do you have fitted?

[Daniel150 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Daniel150]

The 150 points fit exactly like they do on the 150. Chassis is nearly identical.
from memory the upper captive nut needed the plate ground down a bit to fit against the chassis edge and I drilled out a second hole so I had all three bolts in the recovery point. I didn’t do this on the new prado as I didn’t think it needed to be done and I didn’t want to drill and paint a brand new chassis.

[OlsensToursandTraining Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close OlsensToursandTraining]

Hi mate, what bar do you have fitted?

No bar

[Daniel150 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Daniel150]

All good then. You may need to pack the top bolt out a bit to make up the spacing, but otherwise pretty simple job.