Nice job Glen. That upper control arm looks very similar to the Hilux one. With the front wheel bearings what brand did you use? That upper ball joint is something else. You now have eliminated the problem with the hole routing out on the upper genuine control arms. That upper ball joint can be a real bastard to get out of the upper control arm. Affectively, you now have the same design as the 120s and the 150s except better. There's a lot of camber adjustment there now, wow. Did the new upper control arms come bushed or did you have to buy them separate? You weren't temptured to replace the bottom ball joint as well? Time for a wheel alignment ah, Glen.
To do with your driveshaft angles, that's about right. You could go a bit more, but that's pretty good.
Very interesting, can I ask you how much it cost you all up? John (##########).
Bearings = Repco. Whilst they've gone cheap on accessories, their parts still seem to be good quality, and usually come with a warrantee.
I've never heard of the "hole routing out" issue... ? But yes it's a major pain to remove from the ball joint from the upper arm, I had a go, but as anticipated, handed it over to the pros
The UCA's came in black as you see them, ordered from USA, Fat Bob's Garage, Utah (home of Moab!!) for a price that can't be advertised. A single ball joint replacement would have cost $200, but instead this upgrade cost me a total $800 (UCA's, pressing labour, alignment).
Any differences, feelings, etc in normal driving with the new UCAs?
7,6 and 9,4!!!!! That's a great difference in travel without the front sway bar with the new LR UCAs.
I like the LR UCAs because they came sealed. The other brands are very expensive, take more maintenance and become noisy from what I've read before.
Yes it seems to handle the corners a bit better on road, not a lot though, not enough to justify the expense.
Unfortunately I didn't test my old UCA with the sway bar removed, so I don't know if the 7.6" - 9.4" is any better than before. I would suspect it is though, because when parked flat, the new UCA is sitting higher than the old one, so it'd certainly allow more droop (assuming the shock and sway bar will allow it).
hey I was reading about your cv shaft problem I had problems with an after market shaft braking up the inner housing which I think happened due to it not having the same travel as a genuine shaft. I am now in the process of sorting out a Sonoran steel diff drop kit which I have been eyeing off for a while!
75 Series Cruiser No More
Replaced with a G6E Turbo
95 Series Prado [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?19936-Beast2h-s-Prado[/url]
Hey beast2h,
I'm now running Repco ones which come with a waranty. I've noticed their shaft is noticably thicker, so here's hoping the cv joints are stronger too.
A diff drop is a great idea.. but bare in mind the bash plate may need some mods or spacing out (it's worth it though).
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